Uzbekistan
The middle of the Silk Road. Blue-tiled mosques and madrasas stand in each desert city, and a high-speed line now links them in two or three hours.
Landmarks
Blue tile, mud brick, and a sea that disappeared.
- Three madrasas around one squareRegistanSamarkand
Fifteenth to seventeenth century madrasas close three sides of the square. Floodlit at dusk.
- A lane of mausoleumsShah-i-ZindaSamarkand
Tiled tombs line both sides of a narrow path. The colour survives here more strongly than anywhere else.
- An enormous Friday mosqueBibi-Khanym MosqueSamarkand
Built by Timur as the largest mosque of its day, it collapsed and was rebuilt. The scale is overwhelming.
- A minaret over the desertKalyan MinaretBukhara
A 47m brick tower from the twelfth century, said to have been spared even by the Mongols. A mosque and madrasa adjoin it.
- A walled old townItchan KalaKhiva
The entire old town inside mud walls is preserved like a museum. You can walk a circuit on top of the wall.
- A sea that dried upThe Aral Sea and the ship graveyardMoynaq, northwest
Fishing boats sit on sand where the water withdrew. It is the site of an environmental disaster, and a long way out.
World Heritage
Four Silk Road cities left largely intact.
- SamarkandCrossroads of culturesEast centre
The Registan, Shah-i-Zinda and Gur-e-Amir are all included. The city itself is the site.
- Historic centre of BukharaA city two thousand years oldCentral Uzbekistan
Counted among the most completely preserved medieval towns in Central Asia. All of it is walkable.
- Itchan KalaThe walled city of KhivaWest
Uzbekistan's first inscription. It was the last city caravans reached after crossing the desert.
- ShakhrisabzTimur's home townSouth
Only part of the vast palace gateway still stands. Reached over the mountains from Samarkand.
Where to go
The standard route runs west along the high-speed line.
- TashkentThe capitalEast
Rebuilt in the Soviet era, so it is broad and orderly. The decorated metro stations are worth a look.
- SamarkandThe most spectacular cityEast centre
Two hours from Tashkent by fast train. Allow two days.
- BukharaThe oldest feelingCentral Uzbekistan
Narrow lanes and a pool square survive. Quieter than Samarkand.
- KhivaA small, complete walled townWest
A day covers it. Staying inside the walls gives you the emptied-out evening.
- Fergana ValleyCeramics and silkEast
Rishtan ceramics and the Margilan silk workshops. Reached over a mountain pass.
- NukusA museum of forbidden paintingsNorthwest
The Savitsky Museum holds avant-garde work the Soviet state suppressed. Also the base for the Aral Sea.
When to go
A continental desert climate: fierce summers and cold winters.
- SpringApril to MayEverywhere
The best window. Fruit starts to appear and days are warm.
- AutumnSeptember to OctoberEverywhere
Grapes and melons at their peak as the heat retreats. Peak season alongside spring.
- SummerJune to AugustEverywhere
Over 40C with little shade. Midday means staying indoors.
- WinterDecember to FebruaryEverywhere
Below freezing, with snow. Almost empty, and the cheapest time.
- NavruzAround 21 MarchEverywhere
The spring-equinox new year, with food shared in the streets. Some places close over the holiday.
Before you go
It has not been easy to visit for long, so information dates quickly.
- EntryVisa-free for short tourist staysEverywhere
Korean passports need no visa for short tourist stays. The rules change often, so check before leaving.
- MoneySom, with few large notesEverywhere
Card acceptance is growing, but markets and taxis are cash. Changing money leaves you with a brick of notes.
- High-speed railThe AfrosiyobTashkent to Samarkand and Bukhara
Two to three hours between cities. Tickets sell out days ahead, so buy as soon as your dates are fixed.
- Stay registrationYour hotel handles itEverywhere
Hotels register you automatically and hand you a slip. It may be checked on departure, so keep them.
- DressCover up at mosques; everyday dress is relaxedEverywhere
A Muslim country, but dress rules are comparatively loose. Women covering their hair in mosques is the courtesy.
- LanguageUzbek, with Russian widely spokenEverywhere
English rarely works outside tourist sites. Download a translation app before you arrive.
- Emergency numbersPolice 102, ambulance 103, fire 101Everywhere
Do not expect English. Calling through your hotel or guide is more reliable.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.