Taiwan
A spine of three-thousand-metre mountains runs down the middle of the island, with night markets and hot springs around its edge.
Icons
Mountains, gorges, and streets that come alive after dark.
- A gorge cut through marbleTaroko GorgeHualien, east
A narrow, deep gorge where the river has worked into marble. Sections close after rockfalls and earthquakes, so check before you go.
- Once the tallest building in the worldTaipei 101Taipei
A tower shaped after segments of bamboo, with an observation deck. A huge damper hangs inside it against earthquakes and typhoons.
- Lantern lanes on a hillsideJiufenNew Taipei
An old mining town of stepped alleys lined with teahouses and lanterns. Weekend afternoons are extremely crowded.
- Streets that become restaurantsNight marketsThroughout
Every city has a large one, such as Shilin or Raohe. The point is to eat small portions of many things.
- A lake ringed by mountainsSun Moon LakeNantou, central
Cycle paths, a cable car and temples around the shore. It is best known for its morning mist.
- A mountain railway into the cloudsAlishanChiayi, south-central
A narrow-gauge line climbs through cypress forest to a sunrise viewpoint. The sea of cloud at dawn is the classic sight.
Where to go
Cities on the west side, mountains and sea on the east.
- TaipeiThe capitalNorth
Museums, night markets and hot springs all on the metro. Geothermal areas and the coast are day trips.
- TainanThe oldest citySouthwest
Full of temples and old fortifications, and known for its food. Under two hours from Taipei on the high-speed line.
- KaohsiungThe southern portSouth
Dockland turned over to art spaces, with canals through the centre. Hotter and drier than Taipei.
- HualienGateway to TarokoEast
A city between the gorge and the sea cliffs. The east coast highway runs from here.
- TaitungThe southeast coastSoutheast
Rice fields meeting the sea, and a balloon festival. Boats leave for Green Island and Orchid Island.
When to go
The north is wet, the south comparatively dry.
- SpringMarch to MayThroughout
Good temperatures, though the north sees frequent rain. The tea terraces are at their greenest.
- SummerJune to SeptemberThroughout
Hot, humid and in the path of typhoons. Mountain roads are sometimes closed.
- AutumnOctober to NovemberThroughout
Clear and cool, the best window of the year. Better for both hiking and cycling.
- WinterDecember to FebruaryThroughout
Wet in the north, clear in the south. Hot spring season, with snow on the high peaks.
Before you go
Transport and payment are easy enough for a first visit.
- EntryVisa-free short stay for Korean passportsThroughout
No visa is needed for short tourist stays. The arrival card can be filed online in advance.
- Transit cardEasyCard or iPassThroughout
Works on metro, buses and in convenience stores, and links to bike hire. Available at the airport on arrival.
- High-speed railRuns the length of the west coastWest
Taipei to Kaohsiung in around two hours. The east is served by the conventional line along the coast.
- MoneyNew Taiwan dollar, cash still mattersThroughout
Night markets and small shops work in cash. Convenience store ATMs are everywhere.
- EarthquakesA seismically active islandThroughout
Larger quakes are not rare, so read the evacuation notice in your accommodation. Mountain roads are often closed afterwards.
- Emergency numbers110 police, 119 ambulance and fireThroughout
A separate tourist information line handles visitor enquiries in English. Check weather and closure notices before any hike.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.