Sweden
A capital built across islands, and forest and lakes without end. The far north lies inside the Arctic Circle, where summer nights stay light.
Icons
A city on the water, and the light of the north.
- An entire island of old townGamla StanStockholm
Narrow lanes and ochre-and-red buildings filling one island. The royal palace and the cathedral are inside it.
- A warship that sank and was raised wholeVasa MuseumStockholm
A ship that went down on its maiden voyage in 1628, lifted three centuries later and shown almost intact. The hall is kept dark and cool on purpose.
- A hotel rebuilt from ice each yearIcehotelJukkasjarvi
Cut from river ice every winter and allowed to melt in spring. A separate wing stays open year round.
- Aurora inside the Arctic CircleAround AbiskoLapland
The terrain keeps cloud cover low, which is why it is known for aurora watching. The season runs from late autumn to early spring.
- Tens of thousands of islandsStockholm archipelagoEast coast
An hour by boat from the centre puts you among forest and bare rock. It is the heart of the summer cabin tradition.
- A canal across the countryGota CanalCentral
A nineteenth-century canal linking the east and west coasts through a long series of locks. Multi-day boat trips cross it.
World Heritage
Mines, farmland, and the land of the Sami.
- A palace the royal family lives inDrottningholm PalaceWest of Stockholm
A working royal residence with parts open to visitors, including an eighteenth-century theatre kept as it was. The approach by boat is the best one.
- A walled Hanseatic townVisbyGotland
Medieval walls and ruined churches standing inside an island town. Busiest during the summer medieval festival.
- The land of the SamiLaponian AreaLapland, north
Listed for nature and culture together, where reindeer herding continues. The mountains and bogs are wide enough that a guide is advisable.
- The copper mine behind the red paintMining Area of the Great Copper MountainDalarna
A by-product of this mine became the red paint on Swedish country houses. Tours go underground.
- A Viking trading townBirka and HovgardenLake Malaren
Traces of a ninth-century trading centre on an island. Boats run only in summer.
Where to go
It is a long way between the southern cities and the Arctic.
- StockholmThe capitalEast coast
Spread over fourteen islands, so you cross bridges constantly. Its museums are concentrated close together.
- GothenburgThe west coast portWest
Canals and a seafood market, with an easy-going feel. Boats to the western islands leave from here.
- MalmoDenmark across the bridgeSouth
Thirty minutes from Copenhagen over the Oresund Bridge. Full of modern architecture and parks.
- KirunaAn Arctic mining townNorth
The whole town is being moved because of the mine beneath it. It is the base for aurora and the ice hotel.
- GotlandA limestone islandThe Baltic
Coastline studded with sea stacks, plus a medieval town. Ferries and flights multiply in summer.
When to go
The country spans so much latitude that seasons arrive at different times.
- SpringApril to MayNationwide
Snow goes in the south first and the days lengthen quickly. The north is still close to winter.
- SummerJune to AugustNationwide
The archipelago and the lakes open, and midsummer is the event of the year. In the north the sun does not set.
- AutumnSeptember to OctoberNationwide
Forests colour and it is mushroom and berry season. Aurora becomes visible again in the north.
- WinterNovember to MarchNationwide
Dark even in the south, close to polar night in the north. Ice activities and aurora are what the season is for.
Before you go
A country that has all but stopped using cash.
- EntrySchengen short stay, visa-free for Korean passportsNationwide
Up to 90 days in any 180 across the whole Schengen area. The European travel authorisation scheme is being phased in, so check official guidance before you leave.
- MoneySwedish krona, effectively cashlessNationwide
Not the euro, and many shops refuse cash outright. A single card covers almost everything.
- Right of public accessAnyone may walk the forest and campNationwide
You may cross private land as long as you keep away from houses, and pitch a tent for a night. Berries and mushrooms may be picked.
- FikaA pause for coffee and something sweetNationwide
The habit of stopping work once or twice a day for coffee. It is why every cafe sells cinnamon buns.
- Getting aroundNight trains and domestic flightsNationwide
The distance north is long enough that most people fly or take the sleeper. City transport is excellent.
- Emergency number112Nationwide
The pan-European number reaching police, ambulance and fire, with English available. Coverage disappears across wide stretches of the northern mountains.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.