Serbia
A landlocked country in the middle of the Balkans. The Danube runs through it, Roman, Ottoman and Habsburg layers overlap, and prices are about half those of Western Europe.
Landmarks
Rivers, fortresses, and mountains.
- A fortress where two rivers meetKalemegdanBelgrade
It stands where the Sava joins the Danube. It doubles as the park where the city watches the sunset.
- A gorge on the DanubeDjerdap and the Iron GatesEast, on the Romanian border
The river narrows as it cuts the mountains, forming the deepest river gorge in Europe. A colossal face is carved into the cliff.
- A fortress on a river cliffPetrovaradinNovi Sad
A Habsburg fortification whose underground galleries run like a maze. A large music festival is held here in summer.
- A village a director builtDrvengradZlatibor, west
Emir Kusturica built this timber village for a film and it still stands. A tourist narrow-gauge railway runs nearby.
- An emerald gorgeTara National Park and the DrinaWest
Known from the photograph of a small house alone in the middle of the river. Rafting and viewpoints.
- A cobbled street of restaurantsSkadarlijaBelgrade
The old bohemian quarter, with musicians moving between tables each evening. Serbian home cooking is the draw.
World Heritage
Medieval monasteries and a Roman palace.
- Studenica MonasteryA twelfth-century marble monasteryWest centre
Called the mother monastery of Serbian Orthodoxy. Its Byzantine-style frescoes survive well.
- Stari Ras and SopoćaniAn early capital and its monasterySouthwest
Where the medieval Serbian state began. The Sopoćani frescoes are counted among the finest of medieval Europe.
- Gamzigrad-RomulianaA Roman emperor’s palaceEast
The palace and temple complex Emperor Galerius built in his birthplace. Mosaics remain.
- Stećci medieval tombstonesShared across four Balkan countriesWest
Medieval carved stone tombstones with distinctive motifs. Inscribed jointly with Bosnia, Croatia and Montenegro.
Where to go
Belgrade and Novi Sad as the hubs, then mountains west or river east.
- BelgradeThe capitalNorth centre
Known for its nightlife, with many clubs floating on the rivers. Costs are low.
- Novi SadThe second cityVojvodina, north
An Austrian-style square and a fortress. About an hour from Belgrade by train.
- NišThe southern centreSouth
The birthplace of Emperor Constantine. It also carries heavy remains from the Ottoman period.
- ZlatiborA mountain resortWest
Walking in summer, skiing in winter. The timber village and narrow-gauge railway are close.
- SuboticaArt Nouveau architectureFar north, on the Hungarian border
The town hall and synagogue are spectacular. A large Hungarian population gives it a different feel.
- Fruška GoraMonasteries and vineyardsSouth of Novi Sad
A dozen Orthodox monasteries are scattered across the hills. It is also wine country.
When to go
A continental climate: hot summers, cold winters.
- SpringApril to JuneEverywhere
Mild and uncrowded. Good for both the mountains and the rivers.
- SummerJuly to AugustEverywhere
Some days pass 35C. People leave for the riverbanks and the hills.
- AutumnSeptember to OctoberEverywhere
The grape harvest and its festivals. Widely reckoned the best time to visit.
- WinterDecember to FebruaryEverywhere
Below freezing, with snow. The mountains have skiing.
- Summer festivalsJuly to AugustNovi Sad and Guča
The Exit music festival and the Guča trumpet festival. Accommodation prices jump.
Before you go
Neither in the EU nor Schengen, so the rules differ from its neighbours.
- EntryVisa-free short stays; not SchengenEverywhere
Korean passports may stay visa-free up to a set period. Time here is counted separately from Schengen.
- MoneyDinar, not euroEverywhere
Many places will not take euros, so change money. Cards work well in the cities.
- Travelling via KosovoThe order of entry mattersSouthern border
Entering Serbia after arriving through Kosovo has caused problems. Check your route in advance.
- Getting aroundBuses beat trainsEverywhere
Apart from a few lines, rail is slow. Intercity coaches are frequent.
- SmokingIndoor smoking is commonRestaurants and cafes
Rules are loose and people smoke inside. If that bothers you, sit outside.
- LanguageSerbian, written in both Cyrillic and LatinEverywhere
The same language is written two ways, so signs are mixed. Younger people speak English well.
- Emergency numbers112Everywhere
Police 192 and ambulance 194 also work. English is available.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.