Romania
The Carpathians cut the country in two, and behind them lie medieval Saxon villages and wooden churches.
Icons
Mountains, castles, and what the twentieth century left behind.
- The castle that carries Dracula’s nameBran CastleNear Brasov
Known through the novel, though the link to the historical figure is thin. It is more accurate as a castle guarding a mountain pass.
- A road of switchbacks over the ridgeTransfagarasanFagaras Mountains
A paved road climbing close to the summit, open only for a few months in summer. There is a glacial lake at the top.
- The heaviest building in the worldPalace of the ParliamentBucharest
An immense seat of government built by clearing part of the centre under the dictatorship. The interior is seen only on a guided tour.
- Monasteries painted on the outsidePainted monasteries of BucovinaSuceava, northeast
Whole exterior walls were painted to show scripture to people who could not read. The colours are still vivid after five hundred years.
- A funfair inside a salt mineSalina TurdaNear Cluj
A disused mine fitted out deep underground with a ferris wheel and a lake. It is cool year round, so bring a layer.
- The largest wetland in EuropeDanube DeltaTulcea, east
A maze of channels where the river scatters into the Black Sea, reachable only by boat. It is known above all for birds.
World Heritage
Fortified churches, wooden churches, and wetland.
- Villages that walled in their churchesVillages with Fortified Churches in TransylvaniaCentral
Saxon villages that ringed their churches with walls and grain stores against raids. Biertan and Viscri are the best known.
- Wooden churches built without nailsWooden Churches of MaramuresNorth
Eight timber churches with tall, sharp spires are listed. They are scattered between villages, so a car helps.
- Monasteries covered in exterior frescoesChurches of MoldaviaBucovina
The blue at Voronet is famous enough to have become the name of a colour. Most are still working monasteries.
- A medieval citadel people still live inHistoric Centre of SighisoaraCentral
A rare medieval town where residents remain inside the walls. The clock tower looks down over the red roofs.
- A wetland for birdsDanube DeltaEast
A biosphere reserve used by more than three hundred bird species. Many villages connect only by water.
Where to go
Inside and outside the mountains feel like different countries.
- BucharestThe capitalSouth
Belle epoque buildings mixed with socialist-era architecture. Most international flights arrive here.
- BrasovA square beneath the mountainsCentral
The Black Church and a medieval square, and a good base for Bran. A cable car takes in the whole town.
- SibiuRoofs with eyesCentral
Small roof windows look like eyes, which is why people say the city watches you. Three linked squares make up the old town.
- Cluj-NapocaA university cityNorthwest
A large student population keeps the music and festival calendar full. It is the base for Salina Turda.
- MaramuresVillages built in timberNorth
Carved wooden gates and timber churches in a farming region. It holds a cemetery known for its cheerful grave markers.
When to go
Big differences between the mountains and the plains.
- SpringApril to MayNationwide
The countryside turns green and there are few visitors. Mountain roads may still be shut.
- SummerJune to AugustNationwide
The only window when the Transfagarasan is open. The southern plains get very hot.
- AutumnSeptember to OctoberNationwide
Colour and harvest together make the villages worth the trip. Birds are on the move in the delta.
- WinterNovember to MarchNationwide
Heavy snow in the mountains and ski resorts open. Many passes close.
Before you go
An EU member, but the currency is the leu.
- EntryVisa-free short stay; Schengen air and sea controls liftedNationwide
Schengen rules apply at air and sea borders, with land borders changing in stages. Check current guidance if you plan to cross by land.
- MoneyLeu, not the euroNationwide
Cards work widely in cities; the countryside still wants cash. Prices are among the lowest in the EU.
- DrivingA car helps in rural areasNationwide
Wooden churches and fortified villages are hard to reach on public transport. Expect sheep and horse carts on mountain roads.
- WildlifeMany brown bears in the CarpathiansThe mountains
This is the largest brown bear population in Europe, so follow trail guidance closely. Never leave food outside your vehicle.
- LanguageRomanian, a Romance languageNationwide
It shares roots with Italian, so the written form is less foreign than you might expect. English is common in cities.
- Emergency number112Nationwide
The pan-European number reaching police, ambulance and fire, with English available. Mountain rescue is reached on the same number.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.