Peru
Desert coast, Andes and Amazon stacked into one country. Ruins going back long before the Inca sit at 4,000m, so acclimatising is half the itinerary.
Landmarks
A city above the clouds, drawings in the desert, and the Amazon.
- An Inca city in the cloudsMachu Picchu, 2,430mCusco region
Daily numbers, entry times and routes are fixed, so buy months ahead. You arrive by train or on foot only.
- A mountain in stripesVinicunca, 5,036mSoutheast of Cusco
Mineral bands colour the ridge. It is very high, and going without acclimatising is dangerous.
- Vast lines drawn on desertNazca LinesSouth coast
The shapes make no sense from the ground, so people fly over in small planes. A viewing tower suits anyone prone to motion sickness.
- One of the highest large lakes on earthLake Titicaca, 3,812mPuno, on the Bolivian border
The Uros islands, woven from reeds, float on it. Some itineraries include a night on Taquile.
- A canyon where condors riseColca CanyonNorth of Arequipa
Andean condors ride the morning thermals up out of it. It is roughly twice the depth of the Grand Canyon.
- A city with no road to itIquitos and the AmazonNortheast
No road reaches it; you arrive by plane or boat. Staying several days at a jungle lodge is the usual pattern.
World Heritage
The Inca and the civilisations before them, listed together.
- Historic Sanctuary of Machu PicchuThe ruins and the forest around themCusco region
Not only the buildings but the surrounding cloud forest and wildlife are inscribed. It is a mixed site.
- Old town of CuscoA colonial city on Inca stoneworkCusco
The Spanish raised cathedrals and mansions on Inca walls. Two eras overlap in a single wall.
- Nazca LinesLines two thousand years oldSouth coast
A desert that almost never rains is why they survive. Access is restricted to protect them.
- Chan ChanThe largest city built in adobeTrujillo, north coast
The Chimu capital, with fish and net patterns cut into the mud-brick walls. Rain damage has put it on the danger list.
Where to go
Most trips pick two of the three: coast, mountains, jungle.
- LimaThe capitalCentral coast
The international gateway, and known for its food. At sea level it is a good place to rest on day one.
- CuscoThe old Inca capitalSouthern Andes
At 3,400m you need a day or two to adjust. Machu Picchu trips start here.
- The Sacred ValleyPisac and OllantaytamboNorth of Cusco
Lower than Cusco, which makes it better for acclimatising. Ruins and markets one after another.
- ArequipaThe white volcanic-stone citySouth
Built from volcanic rock, so the city is white. The base for Colca Canyon.
- PunoThe port on TiticacaSoutheast
Higher still at 3,800m. Also the crossing point into Bolivia.
- HuarazTrekking among snow peaksNorth-central Andes
6,000m peaks and glacial lakes together. Fewer people and exceptional scenery.
When to go
The seasons run in opposite directions depending on the region.
- Andean dry seasonMay to SeptemberCusco and Huaraz
Clear, and the best time for trekking. Nights drop below freezing.
- Andean wet seasonDecember to MarchCusco and Huaraz
Landslides cut roads, and the Inca Trail closes entirely in February.
- The coastClear December to AprilLima and the north coast
The rest of the year a dense fog called garúa sits over Lima. The opposite of the highlands.
- The AmazonHot and humid all yearIquitos and Puerto Maldonado
High water from November to April lets boats go deeper. May to October opens up more walking.
- Inti Raymi24 JuneCusco
The festival of the sun fills the city. Rooms are taken months ahead.
Before you go
Preparing for altitude is half the preparation.
- EntryVisa-free for short tourist staysEverywhere
Korean passports need no visa for short tourist stays. Check the number of days granted at the border.
- Altitude sicknessMany towns sit above 3,000mCusco and Puno
Rest on arrival day and avoid alcohol and heavy meals. If symptoms worsen, descending is the only real remedy.
- Machu Picchu ticketsDate, time and route chosen in advanceCusco region
There is no gate sale, and peak dates sell out months ahead. Climbing Huayna Picchu is a separate ticket.
- MoneySol; cards work in citiesEverywhere
Markets and rural areas are cash. Dollars are accepted but at poor rates.
- Food and waterDo not drink the tap waterEverywhere
Use bottled water, and pick street food from busy stalls. Ceviche is raw fish, so judge the hygiene.
- SafetyPickpocketing and unlicensed taxisLima and larger cities
Ride-hailing is safer than flagging a taxi. Avoid empty streets after dark.
- Emergency numbers105 police, 106 ambulanceEverywhere
There is a separate tourist police. Spanish is the default, so calling through your hotel is faster.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.