Oman
The eastern end of Arabia. Instead of towers there are earth-coloured forts, canyons, and southern hills that get summer rain. It reads nothing like its neighbours.
Landmarks
Canyons in the mountains, desert, and sea turtles.
- The Grand Canyon of ArabiaJebel Shams, 3,000mNorthern mountains
A path runs along the rim of a deep gorge. Cool even in summer, and below freezing on winter nights.
- Pools at the end of a canyonWadi ShabEast coast
A short boat crossing and forty minutes of walking bring you to emerald water. The last stretch is a swim.
- Red dunesSharqiya SandsEast centre
A night at a desert camp, with camels and four-wheel-drives over the dunes. About three hours from Muscat.
- A mosque with an enormous carpetSultan Qaboos Grand MosqueMuscat
Known for its single-woven carpet and chandelier. Non-worshippers enter only during set morning hours.
- A turtle nesting beachRas Al JinzEasternmost point
Green turtles come ashore at night to lay. Entry is by reservation and with a guide only.
- A south that turns green in summerThe khareef at SalalahDhofar, south
Monsoon mist covers the desert in green from July to September. Nowhere else in Arabia does this.
World Heritage
Forts, irrigation channels, and the frankincense road.
- Bahla FortA mud-brick fort and wallNorthern interior
A 12km wall and fort ring the oasis town. It was Oman’s first inscription.
- Archaeological sites of BatBronze Age tombs and towersNorthern interior
Beehive tombs and stone towers from the third millennium BC. This was a centre of the copper trade.
- Land of FrankincenseFrankincense trees and caravan sitesDhofar, south
Frankincense groves, ports and caravan towns inscribed together. It was the key commodity of ancient trade.
- Aflaj irrigation systemsChannels two thousand years oldNationwide
Water is brought from the mountains to the villages by gravity alone. The order in which it is shared is still governed by rule.
Where to go
North and south are two hours apart by plane and feel like different countries.
- MuscatThe capitalNortheast coast
Building heights are capped by law, so it stays low and white. A souk, an opera house and a coast road.
- NizwaThe old inland capitalNorthern interior
A cylindrical fort and a Friday livestock market. The base for mountain trips.
- Jebel AkhdarRoses and terraced fieldsNorthern mountains
Cool at altitude, with roses flowering in spring. Some sections are four-wheel-drive only.
- SurA port of wooden shipsEast coast
Dhows are still built by hand in the yards here. Close to the turtle beaches.
- SalalahThe southern centreSouth
A tropical climate where bananas and coconuts grow. It feels like another country from Muscat.
- MusandamA fjord-like coastNorthern exclave
Omani territory surrounded by the UAE. You travel the narrow inlets by boat.
When to go
The good season in the north is the opposite of the south.
- Northern winterOctober to AprilMuscat and the interior
Around 25C by day and pleasant. The best window for desert and canyon trips.
- Northern summerMay to SeptemberMuscat and the interior
Over 45C and humid. Outdoor activity is hard unless you go up into the mountains.
- Southern monsoonJuly to SeptemberSalalah
Mist and drizzle keep it cool and green. Visitors from across the Gulf come to escape the heat.
- Turtle nestingAll year, peaking in summerRas Al Jinz
Numbers are highest May to September. It is a night visit, so book ahead.
- RamadanDates shift each yearEverywhere
Eating and drinking in public during daylight is restricted, and attraction hours shorten.
Before you go
A car is close to essential, and customs are more conservative than next door.
- EntryVisa-free for short tourist staysEverywhere
Korean passports may enter without a visa up to a set period. Terms change, so check before you leave.
- DrivingOn the right; a rental car is effectively requiredEverywhere
Public transport is sparse and moving around without a car is hard. Mountains and wadis need four-wheel-drive in places.
- Wadi safetyWatch for flash floodsCanyons
Rain falling far away fills dry canyons without warning. Never drive across flowing water.
- MoneyRial, a large unitEverywhere
One rial is worth a lot, so prices run to three decimal places. Rural areas need cash.
- DressMore conservative than DubaiEverywhere
Covering shoulders and knees is the baseline, and swimwear belongs on beaches and at pools only.
- CampingBroadly permittedDesert and beaches
Camping freely outside private land is part of the culture. Leaving no rubbish is the rule.
- Emergency number9999Everywhere
Reaches police, ambulance and fire. There are long stretches without signal in the mountains and desert.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.