Okinawa
An island chain fifteen hundred kilometres south of mainland Japan. It was the Ryukyu Kingdom for four and a half centuries, and the language, food and buildings still show it.
Landmarks
What the Ryukyu left, the sea, and the memory of the war.
- The Ryukyu royal castleShuri CastleNaha
The main hall burned in 2019 and is being rebuilt. The reconstruction itself is open to visitors.
- A tank with whale sharksChuraumi AquariumMotobu, north
Whale sharks and manta rays share one enormous tank. Late afternoon is quieter.
- A bay of glass-clear waterKabira BayIshigaki
Exceptionally clear, but currents are strong and swimming is prohibited. You see it from glass-bottomed boats.
- The memory of the warPeace Memorial Park and HimeyuriItoman, south
The names of those killed in the Battle of Okinawa are inscribed regardless of nationality. It is a heavy place.
- A village of red tileTaketomi IslandYaeyama Islands
Ryukyuan stone walls and red-tiled houses survive intact. Ox carts take you around the village.
- A bridge across the seaKouri BridgeNorth
Nearly two kilometres of bridge over shallow water, with the colour visible on both sides.
World Heritage
The castle sites and sacred places of the Ryukyu Kingdom, inscribed together.
- Shuri Castle siteThe centre of the kingdomNaha
What is inscribed is the site beneath, not the timber buildings that burned. That is why the listing stands.
- Nakagusuku Castle siteWalls built in curvesCentral Okinawa
The best surviving example of the distinctively curved Ryukyuan stonework. Sea and interior are both in view.
- Katsuren Castle siteA castle that grew rich on tradeCentral peninsula
Roman-era coins were excavated here, which made headlines. It was a maritime trading base.
- Sefa-utakiThe highest sacred site of the RyukyuSouth
A triangular cleft in the rock frames Kudaka Island. People still come to pray, so pass through quietly.
Where to go
South, centre and north of the main island, plus the southern islands by air.
- NahaThe main citySouthern main island
Both international and domestic flights land here. Kokusai Street and the markets are here.
- Chatan and American VillageA strip beside the US basesCentral main island
American-style shops and a ferris wheel. Good for sunsets.
- OnnaThe resort coastWest coast of the main island
Large resorts line the shore. Lookouts such as Manzamo are close by.
- IshigakiGateway to the Yaeyama400km southwest
An hour by air from Naha. Boats to the surrounding islands leave from here.
- MiyakoThe clearest water300km southwest
Small islands joined by bridges. Known for the colour of its beaches.
- IriomoteMangrove and jungleYaeyama Islands
Almost all of the island is primary forest, and you paddle up the rivers. It is a natural World Heritage site.
When to go
Subtropical, so winters stay above freezing, and typhoons pass in summer.
- SpringMarch to MayEverywhere
Not yet hot and free of typhoons, so easy travelling. The rainy season starts mid-May.
- SummerJuly to SeptemberEverywhere
The sea is warmest, but it overlaps the typhoon season. The sun is very strong.
- TyphoonsJuly to OctoberEverywhere
A track overhead cuts flights and ferries for days. Carry insurance and leave buffer days.
- WinterDecember to FebruaryEverywhere
15 to 20C, too cool for swimming but good for walking. Cherry blossom comes in January and February.
- Humpback whalesJanuary to MarchKerama Islands
Boats go out to the breeding pods. It runs only in winter.
Before you go
It is Japan, but getting around and the sense of prices differ from the mainland.
- EntryThe same as entering JapanNaha Airport
Korean passports need no visa for short tourist stays. Completing the online pre-arrival steps speeds things up.
- Rental carEffectively essentialThe main island
The only rail is the Naha monorail, so moving around without a car is hard. Book months ahead in peak season.
- CongestionSevere at commuting hoursSouth and central main island
Route 58 jams badly morning and evening. Allow generous travel time.
- Island hoppingDomestic flights and ferriesYaeyama and Miyako
You fly from the main island. Ferries cancel in high swell, so have an alternative in mind.
- Water safetyJellyfish and coralThe coast
Venomous jellyfish appear in summer, so swim inside the netted areas. Do not walk on coral.
- US basesPhotography is restricted in placesCentral Okinawa
Some areas around the bases prohibit photography. Follow the signage.
- Emergency numbersPolice 110, ambulance 119Everywhere
The same as Japan. Evacuation from the outer islands takes time.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.