Norway
Glacier-cut fjords running the length of the coast. In the north the sun does not set in summer and does not rise in winter.
Icons
Fjords, light, and the routes that thread between them.
- A narrow fjord with waterfalls on both wallsGeirangerfjordMore og Romsdal, west
Boats run the stretch where water falls from the cliffs on either side. The hairpin road climbing to the viewpoint above is famous in its own right.
- A flat rock at the cliff edgePreikestolenNear Stavanger
A square platform six hundred metres above the fjord, about four hours there and back on foot. There is no railing, so keep away from the edge.
- Sharp peaks rising straight from the seaLofoten IslandsNorth
Red fishermen’s cabins and steep summits in the same frame. In summer the sun is still up at midnight.
- Aurora in the winter skyNorthern lightsTromso and north
Needs dark, clear winter nights, and luck with the weather matters as much as anything. The further from town lights, the better.
- A road of bridges between isletsAtlantic RoadWest coast
A short coastal stretch of low bridges that waves break over. The rougher the weather, the more people come to watch.
- A mountain railway down a steep gradeFlam RailwayMyrdal to Flam
An hour from the mountains down to the fjord, pausing at a waterfall on the way. Usually taken as a leg of the Bergen line.
World Heritage
Fjord landscape, timber building, and a mining town.
- Two fjords cut by iceWest Norwegian FjordsGeiranger and Naeroy
Two fjords listed together for their extremes of depth and cliff height. The intended way to see them is from the water.
- The Hanseatic timber wharfBryggenBergen
A row of wooden buildings burnt down and rebuilt on the same footprint many times over. Step into the back lanes and the corridors lean.
- A stave church carrying Viking ornamentUrnes Stave ChurchLuster
A twelfth-century timber church whose interlaced beast carving gave its name to a whole Nordic style. It is awkward to reach, so allow half a day.
- A copper mining townRorosInland, central
Rows of soot-darkened timber houses left from its mining years. Winter temperatures here reach thirty below.
Where to go
The southern cities and the Arctic ones feel like different countries.
- OsloThe capitalSoutheast
The Munch museum, Viking finds and the opera house all sit around the harbour. Most international flights land here.
- BergenGateway to the fjordsWest coast
Bryggen and the fish market, and rain more often than not. Fjord boats and trains leave from here.
- TromsoAn Arctic cityNorth
The centre for winter aurora and summer midnight sun. A cable car takes you above the whole city.
- StavangerThe base for PreikestolenSouthwest coast
Lanes of white timber houses and a museum of the oil industry. Many stay a night before the hike.
- SvalbardAn Arctic archipelagoThe far north
Islands often said to hold more polar bears than people, reached by air. Strict safety rules apply outside the settlements.
When to go
Day length changes drastically with latitude.
- SpringApril to MayNationwide
Meltwater swells the waterfalls. Many mountain roads are still closed.
- SummerJune to AugustNationwide
The only season with every road and boat running, and the midnight sun in the north. Peak prices come with it.
- AutumnSeptember to OctoberNationwide
Colour in the valleys, and the aurora starts to show. Mountain passes begin closing with snow.
- WinterNovember to MarchNationwide
Weeks when the sun never rises in the north, and the best aurora. Without proper cold-weather kit, outdoor plans do not work.
Before you go
In Schengen but not on the euro, and expensive.
- EntrySchengen short stay, visa-free for Korean passportsNationwide
Not an EU member but inside Schengen, so the 90-in-180 rule applies as normal. Check whether the travel authorisation scheme is in force before you leave.
- MoneyNorwegian krone, card firstNationwide
Not the euro, and cash is barely used. Eating out and accommodation are among the most expensive in Europe.
- Right to roamAnyone may walk and campNationwide
You may cross private land that is not under cultivation and pitch a tent for a night. The rule in exchange is to leave no trace.
- Getting aroundBoat, train and bus in combinationNationwide
Fjords make short distances slow. Coastal ferries are a serious part of the transport network in the north.
- WeatherChanges several times a dayWest coast and mountains
Rain is very frequent around Bergen. Waterproofs and layers are not optional.
- Emergency numbers112 police, 113 ambulanceNationwide
112 will connect you, but 113 is faster for medical emergencies. Coverage drops out across much of the mountains and fjords.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.