New Caledonia
A French overseas territory in the South Pacific. One of the largest coral lagoons on earth rings the island, and Melanesian Kanak culture sits alongside France.
Landmarks
The lagoon, the outer islands, and a cultural centre.
- A World Heritage lagoonThe New Caledonia lagoonAround the whole island
More than fifteen hundred kilometres of reef enclose the main island. Six zones are inscribed as natural World Heritage.
- A heart visible only from the airCœur de VohNorthwest
Mangroves grew naturally into the shape of a heart. You see it from a light aircraft or helicopter.
- The island of pinesÎle des PinsSouth
Tall araucaria pines line white sand. A shallow pool here is called the natural swimming pool.
- A Kanak cultural centreTjibaou Cultural CentreNouméa
Renzo Piano designed the row of timber structures facing the bay. It presents Kanak culture.
- An island of cliffs and cavesLifouLoyalty Islands
Seawater caves lie beneath limestone cliffs. Most of the land is customarily tribal property.
- A coral islet with a lighthouseAmédée IslandOff Nouméa
Two hundred and forty-seven steps up a nineteenth-century iron lighthouse. A half-day boat trip.
Where to go
The main island, and the islands around it.
- NouméaThe main citySouthern main island
French cafes and markets. Most of the population and nearly all the accommodation are here.
- The northern main islandRanches and minesNorth
Cattle country with a surviving cowboy culture. Nickel mines leave the hills exposed and red.
- The east coastKanak villagesEast
Some villages offer tribal homestays. There is a protocol for visiting, so go through a guide.
- OuvéaTwenty-five kilometres of white sandLoyalty Islands
A long beach sometimes called the closest island to paradise. Few facilities, and quiet.
- MaréThe highest Loyalty islandLoyalty Islands
Uplifted coral gives it high cliffs. Natural pools and caves.
- Blue River Provincial ParkRed earth and a drowned forestSouthern main island
Submerged trees and red soil make an unusual landscape. The flightless kagu lives here.
When to go
Southern hemisphere, so the seasons are inverted.
- Dry seasonApril to NovemberEverywhere
Southern winter into spring: cool and less humid. The best time to travel.
- Wet seasonDecember to MarchEverywhere
Hot, humid and frequently wet. The sea is at its warmest.
- CyclonesJanuary to MarchEverywhere
A track overhead cuts flights and ferries. Watch the warning level.
- Humpback whalesJuly to SeptemberThe southern lagoon
They enter the lagoon to breed. Viewing rules are strictly enforced.
- French holiday periodsJuly to August and DecemberEverywhere
Visitors from France and Australia push flight and room prices up.
Before you go
French systems apply, and it is expensive.
- EntryVisa-free for short tourist staysEverywhere
Korean passports need no visa for short tourist stays. It is separate from metropolitan France, so check the terms.
- MoneyCFP franc, not euroEverywhere
The currency used across French Pacific territories. Costs are very high, so budget generously.
- Tribal customSome places expect a greeting on arrivalEast coast and Loyalty Islands
Entering tribal land can involve a small gift and a formal greeting. Ask your host or guide first.
- LanguageFrench; little EnglishEverywhere
Outside Nouméa English barely works. Bring a translation app.
- Getting aroundRental car and domestic flightsEverywhere
The main island needs a car, and the islands are reached by small plane or boat. Driving is on the right.
- Water safetySea snakes and coralThe coast
Highly venomous sea kraits come ashore. They are docile, but never touch one.
- Emergency numbersPolice 17, ambulance 15, fire 18Everywhere
The same numbering as France. 112 also connects.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.