Mexico

Maya astronomy is built into the structure: at the equinoxes a serpent-shaped shadow runs down the staircase. Climbing is no longer allowed, so you view it from below. There is no shade and it gets very hot — arrive at opening.

A city far older than the Aztecs, and who built it is still not settled. An hour by road from Mexico City makes it a day trip, and some people take a dawn balloon flight over it. Walking the Avenue of the Dead is what conveys the scale.

Collapsed limestone filled with clear groundwater, sacred to the Maya. You can swim and snorkel, and they come as caves or open pools. Sunscreen contaminates the water and is banned at many — follow the signs.

A Maya site on a cliff with a Caribbean beach beneath it. The ruins are small enough for an hour or two, which makes a half day with the beach. Go early for less heat and fewer people.

Families take flowers and candles to the cemetery and spend the night there — less a day of mourning than of welcome. Oaxaca and Pátzcuaro are the best known. Accommodation for this window fills months ahead.

A group of canyons covering more ground than the Grand Canyon. The Chihuahua Pacific railway that crosses it is the standard way to travel here. The altitude range is wide enough to change the temperature within a single day.

A colonial cathedral sits directly on an Aztec temple, and the layering is visible. The Templo Mayor excavation next door shows it in section. The soft ground has left buildings visibly tilted.

The Zapotecs flattened a mountain top and built plazas and temples on it. Oaxaca city is separately famous for food and craft, so the two go together. The altitude keeps it cool even in high summer.

Surrounded by rainforest, so the site comes with trees and noise. The excavated royal tomb is famous and the relief carving is well preserved. It is humid and hot — bring water and insect protection.

Built rich on silver, with painted houses packed up the hillsides. Cars run through tunnels underneath while the surface stays for walking, which is unusual. Often combined with San Miguel de Allende.

Mangrove, lagoon and reef in one protected area, entered by boat. Floating down the canals the Maya cut is the known experience here. Access is from Tulum.

Butterflies that have flown thousands of kilometres from North America blanket the fir forest. Visible only between late November and early March. It is high and uphill, so it takes some effort.

The National Museum of Anthropology alone takes half a day, and there are murals and markets everywhere. At over 2,200 metres you may feel the altitude on day one. Teotihuacan is a day trip.

Known for regional cooking, mole above all, and for textiles and woodcarving. The city is small and walkable, and life collects in the plaza. It is fullest for Day of the Dead.

Chichén Itzá, Uxmal and the cenotes are all within a day’s reach. Cheaper and steadier than the coastal resorts. Very hot and humid.

White sand and shallow water, built for resting. Some years seaweed washes in over the summer and spoils the beaches. Tulum and the cenotes are close enough to mix in a day at a time.

Cobbled streets and pastel buildings, with a large foreign resident population and the amenities that follow. Two days is enough. On high ground, so evenings are cool.

The Pacific on one side and the Sea of Cortez on the other make it exceptionally rich in marine life. Grey whales come to calve in winter. Distances are long and a car is needed.

Low rain and humidity make it the best time for archaeological sites. It is also peak on the Caribbean coast. Christmas, new year and Easter week push prices sharply up.

Rain tends to arrive in the afternoon, so mornings usually work. The landscape is green and prices fall. Humidity makes the ruins harder going.

Cancún and the other coastal areas can see cancelled flights and closures. Activity peaks around September. A changeable ticket and insurance are worth considering.

Mexico City and Oaxaca sit high enough that evenings stay cool even in summer. Go easy on the first day after arriving. The ultraviolet is strong.

Do not drink the tap water. Hotels often have filtered water, and buying one large bottle to share cuts the waste. Ice in restaurants is generally made from purified water, but be careful at street stalls.

High turnover is the best indicator, and anything cooked to order and served hot is fine. Heat is controlled with the salsa, which is served separately. Tacos differ by region.

Between cities, the premium coaches are comfortable and well regarded for safety. For longer hops a domestic flight saves a great deal of time. On some routes daytime travel is advised over overnight.

Conditions in tourist areas and in certain states differ enormously. Check your government’s state-by-state advisory before you go and avoid states under elevated warnings. Use taxis or ride-hailing at night.

Ten to fifteen per cent on a restaurant bill is normal. Small amounts also go to petrol attendants and parking helpers. Card terminals usually ask about the tip separately.

Police, fire and ambulance are consolidated on 911. Some tourist areas run a dedicated visitor assistance service. Keep a passport copy and your insurance certificate on your phone.