Maldives
More than a thousand coral islands grouped into twenty-six atolls, almost all of them only a few metres above the sea.
Icons
Most of what there is to see is in or just above the water.
- Rooms built out over the seaOverwater villasThroughout
Rooms on piles above shallow reef, with steps straight down into the water. They have become the image of the country.
- Manta rays and whale sharksHanifaru Bay and South AriBaa and Ari atolls
Large gatherings form when the plankton arrives. These are protected areas with strict access rules.
- Waves that glow at nightBioluminescent planktonCertain beaches
Water that lights up blue as it breaks, though neither the timing nor the place is predictable. Dark, moonless nights are best.
- One of the most densely populated capitalsMaleNorth Male Atoll
A capital packed onto a single small island, with mosques and markets side by side. Nothing like the resorts.
- Sand islands that appear with the tideSandbanksThroughout
Boats drop you on a bare bank of sand for half a day. There is no shade at all, so plan for the sun.
- Islands where people liveLocal islandsThroughout
Guesthouses operate on inhabited islands as well as resorts. Far cheaper, but the rules are different.
Where to go
You choose by atoll, and often one island is one hotel.
- North and South Male AtollClose to the airportCentral
Reachable by speedboat, so transfers are easy and choice is wide. The cheapest to get to.
- Ari AtollDiving countryWest
The sites for whale sharks and mantas are concentrated here. Usually reached by seaplane.
- Baa AtollA biosphere reserveNorth
Designated a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Hanifaru Bay draws the famous manta gatherings.
- MaafushiThe best-known local islandSouth Male Atoll
A cluster of guesthouses that makes budget travel possible. Swimwear is allowed only on a designated stretch.
- Addu AtollThe far southSouthern tip
Reached by domestic flight, with traces of a former British base. Causeways link the islands for cycling.
When to go
Two monsoons, with the temperature much the same all year.
- Dry seasonNovember to AprilThroughout
Calm seas and good visibility make this the high season. Prices peak.
- Wet seasonMay to OctoberThroughout
More wind and rain, though all-day rain is rare. Prices fall, and it is a good window for whale sharks.
- Manta seasonJune to November in BaaNorth
Plankton draws large aggregations into Hanifaru Bay. Visitor numbers there are managed.
- RamadanDates move each yearInhabited islands
Daytime restaurant service is restricted on local islands. Resorts are largely unaffected.
Before you go
Resort islands and inhabited islands follow different rules.
- EntryFree tourist visa on arrival, plus an online formThroughout
A short tourist permit is granted on arrival, with accommodation booking and onward ticket checked. An electronic arrival form is required beforehand.
- Local island rulesSwimwear only on marked beachesInhabited islands
This is a Muslim country, so cover shoulders and knees on local islands and swim only where marked. Alcohol is sold on resort islands only.
- TransfersSpeedboat, seaplane or domestic flightThroughout
Which one you need, and what it costs, depends entirely on where you stay. Seaplanes fly in daylight only.
- MoneyRufiyaa, but resorts price in dollarsThroughout
Resorts run on card and you will barely touch local currency. Cash is useful on local islands.
- Protecting the reefDo not stand on or touch coralThroughout
Coral dies from even light contact. Some areas ask visitors to use reef-safe sunscreen.
- Emergency numbers119 police, 102 ambulanceThroughout
Medical evacuation from a remote atoll takes a long time. Check your cover if you plan to dive.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.