Mongolia
A country the size of Western Europe with around three million people. Steppe, desert and the night sky are not the backdrop to a trip here; they are the trip.
Landmarks
Desert dunes, a steppe lake, and horses.
- The singing dunesKhongoryn ElsGobi, south
A dune field over a hundred kilometres long, rising to 300m. Climb the ridge and the sand hums.
- Cliffs that gave up dinosaur eggsBayanzagGobi, south
Sandstone cliffs that burn red at sunset. The first dinosaur eggs known to science were found here.
- The blue pearlLake KhuvsgulNorth, near the Russian border
A famously clear freshwater lake that freezes thick in winter. Reindeer-herding Tsaatan communities live nearby.
- Turtle Rock and open grasslandTerelj National ParkEast of Ulaanbaatar
Ninety minutes from the capital, so people stay in a ger for a night or two. Riding and short hikes.
- A giant equestrian statueChinggis Khaan statue, 40mTsonjin Boldog
A stainless steel rider you can climb up inside as far as the head. On the road to Terelj.
- Hunting with eaglesKazakh eagle huntersBayan-Olgii, west
The tradition of hunting with trained golden eagles survives here. Most gather for the October festival.
World Heritage
Less ruins than landscapes and rock art.
- Orkhon ValleyOld capitals of nomadic empiresCentral Mongolia
The site of Karakorum, capital of the Uyghur and Mongol empires, and Erdene Zuu monastery. The whole steppe landscape is inscribed.
- Uvs Nuur BasinDesert and tundra in one basinNorthwest, on the Russian border
Dunes, glaciers and tundra ring a salt lake. The temperature range here is extreme.
- Altai petroglyphsRock art across ten thousand yearsBayan-Olgii, west
The shift from hunting to herding is carved continuously into the rock.
- Burkhan KhaldunA sacred mountainKhentii, northeast
Said to be where Chinggis Khaan prayed, and still a sacred site. Access is restricted.
Where to go
There is effectively one city; the rest is landscape.
- UlaanbaatarThe capitalNorth centre
Half the country lives here. See Gandan monastery and the museums, then head out.
- The GobiDunes and canyonsSouth
Days of driving between sights. Flying to Dalanzadgad shortens it.
- Central steppeKarakorum and Tsagaan NuurArkhangai and Ovorkhangai
Ruins, volcanic lakes and hot springs in sequence. Often called the most archetypal Mongolian scenery.
- The northKhuvsgul and forestKhuvsgul province
Conifer forest and lake, unlike the rest of the country. The summer is short.
- The western AltaiSnow peaks and Kazakh cultureBayan-Olgii
Reached by plane from Ulaanbaatar. The language and food differ from elsewhere.
- The eastern steppePlains without a horizonDornod
One of the largest intact temperate grasslands left. Facilities are minimal, so plan carefully.
When to go
A short summer and a brutal winter.
- SummerJune to AugustEverywhere
The steppe is green and every ger camp is open. Effectively the only travel season.
- Naadam festivalMid-JulyUlaanbaatar and nationwide
Wrestling, archery and horse racing. Flights and rooms fill months ahead.
- AutumnSeptemberEverywhere
Fewer people and better light. Nights drop below freezing.
- WinterNovember to MarchEverywhere
Below minus 30C. Some come deliberately for ice festivals and the stars, but it needs different preparation.
- Daily temperature swing20C even in summerGobi and steppe
Hot at midday and freezing at night. Bring a proper coat even in July.
Before you go
Lodging, plumbing and signal all change completely once you leave the city.
- EntryVisa-free for short tourist staysEverywhere
Korean passports need no visa for short tourist stays. The arrangement can change, so check before leaving.
- MoneyTugrik; cash outside the cityEverywhere
Cards work in Ulaanbaatar but there is nowhere to use them on the steppe. Draw cash before you set out.
- Staying in a gerShared toilets, limited hot waterSteppe and desert
Power and water are often rationed. Wet wipes, a power bank and a head torch genuinely matter.
- Getting aroundA vehicle with a driver is standardOutside the city
Few paved roads and almost no signage make self-driving hard. Hiring a driver and guide together is normal.
- Ger etiquetteNever step on the thresholdHerder households
Stepping on the threshold or turning your back to the stove is frowned on. Accept at least a sip of the tea or dairy offered.
- Altitude and sunMostly above 1,000mEverywhere
The air is dry and the sun is strong. Bring sunscreen, lip balm and water.
- Emergency numbersPolice 102, ambulance 103, fire 101Everywhere
There are long stretches of the steppe with no signal. Choosing an operator with satellite communication is the safer call.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.