Latvia
A capital with whole streets of art nouveau, and a long beach backed by pine forest. It sits in the middle of the three Baltic states.
Icons
Architecture, forest and singing are what the country is known by.
- Art nouveau by the streetAlberta iela and aroundRiga
Facades covered in carved faces and curving ornament fill an entire quarter. It is counted among the densest concentrations of art nouveau in Europe.
- A guild hall rebuilt from photographsHouse of the BlackheadsRiga old town
Destroyed in the war and raised again from photographs and drawings. Its red brick front is the picture most people carry away from Riga.
- Castles along a river valleyGauja ValleySigulda and Turaida
Medieval castles and ruins strung between red sandstone cliffs and forest. An hour from Riga by train, so it is a common day out.
- White sand ringed by pinesJurmalaWest of Riga
More than thirty kilometres of sand backed by wooden villas. Half an hour from Riga on the commuter train.
- A choral festival every five yearsSong and Dance CelebrationRiga
Tens of thousands singing together on one stage, inscribed as intangible heritage. The open-air stage stands there in the years between.
- A boardwalk across the bogKemeri National ParkWest of Jurmala
Planks laid over peat bog let you walk between the pools without sinking in. It is best known for the mist that settles at sunrise.
World Heritage
Two towns, and a survey line that crosses many countries.
- From Hanseatic port to art nouveau cityHistoric Centre of RigaRiga
Medieval warehouses, nineteenth-century timber houses and art nouveau overlap within one district. A day on foot covers it.
- A timber town listed wholeOld Town of KuldigaKurzeme, in the west
Seventeenth and eighteenth-century wooden buildings surviving street by street. What is said to be Europe’s widest waterfall runs beside the town.
- Points set down to measure the EarthStruve Geodetic ArcSeveral points
Part of a nineteenth-century chain of survey points running from Norway to the Black Sea to measure the shape of the Earth. The heritage is a stone, so it looks modest up close.
Where to go
Riga is large enough that almost every route passes through it.
- RigaCapital and the largest Baltic cityCentral coast
Old town, the art nouveau quarter and the central market all join up on foot. Buses and flights linking the three Baltic states converge here.
- SiguldaCastles and a valleyGauja, northeast
A cable car crosses the valley and three castle sites link up on foot. Best known for its autumn colour.
- CesisA small town around a medieval castleNortheast
Its ruined tower is shown by handing visitors a lantern to climb with. The old town is small and quiet.
- LiepajaA windy portWest coast
Abandoned coastal fortifications sit alongside a reputation as a music city. Outdoor concerts fill the summer.
- VentspilsA trim port townNorthwest coast
Unusually well kept for a working port, with parks and playgrounds that make it a family destination. Painted cow sculptures are scattered through the streets.
When to go
Summer is short and bright; winter is long and grey.
- SpringApril to MayNationwide
Bogs and forests wake up and the birds return. The wind is cold, so bring a layer.
- SummerJune to AugustNationwide
Beach and festival season, with very long days. On midsummer night bonfires burn across the country.
- AutumnSeptember to OctoberNationwide
Colour in the Gauja valley peaks now. Rain is frequent and the days shorten fast.
- WinterNovember to MarchNationwide
A grey, damp cold that holds for months, and the sea sometimes freezes. Christmas markets and a snow-covered old town are the draw.
Before you go
Inside the Schengen area, and on the euro.
- EntrySchengen short stay, visa-free for Korean passportsNationwide
Up to 90 days in any 180 across the whole Schengen area. The European travel authorisation scheme is being phased in, so check official guidance before you leave.
- MoneyEuro, cards widely acceptedNationwide
Even small shops and market stalls generally take cards. Prices sit below western Europe.
- Central MarketA market inside airship hangarsRiga
Five vast barrel-vaulted halls given over entirely to market stalls. Smoked fish and rye bread in one place.
- Getting aroundCommuter trains and intercity busesNationwide
Trains suit Jurmala and Sigulda from Riga; buses cover almost everything else. Long-distance coaches between the Baltic states also centre on Riga.
- LanguageLatvian, with Russian and English also in useNationwide
A Baltic language, close kin to Lithuanian. English works in the cities and a large share of the population speaks Russian.
- Emergency number112Nationwide
The pan-European number reaching police, ambulance and fire, with English available. Signal weakens in stretches of bog and forest.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.