Sri Lanka
An island south of India. Ancient capitals, tea country, elephants and beaches are joined by rail, and the island is small enough that legs are short.
Landmarks
A palace on a rock, tea country, and wildlife.
- A palace on top of a rockSigiriya, 200mNorth centre
A fifth-century royal citadel on a single rock. Frescoes survive halfway up, along with the lion-paw gateway.
- The temple of the tooth relicSri Dalada MaligawaKandy
The centre of Sri Lankan Buddhism. You have to time your visit to one of the three daily ceremonies.
- A train through the teaThe Kandy to Ella lineCentral highlands
A slow train through plantations and gorges. Window seats sell out, so book early.
- A port town inside wallsGalle FortSouthwest coast
Shops and guesthouses fill a Dutch-built fortification. People watch the sunset from the ramparts.
- A park dense with leopardsYala National ParkSoutheast
The odds of seeing a Sri Lankan leopard are comparatively good. Animals gather at water in the dry season.
- A pilgrimage climbed at nightAdam's Peak, 2,243mCentral Sri Lanka
People climb the steps overnight to be at the summit for sunrise. The pilgrimage season runs December to May.
World Heritage
Three old capitals, a fortified town, and a forest.
- AnuradhapuraA capital for more than a thousand yearsNorth centre
Huge stupas, reservoirs, and a bo tree over two thousand years old. Many people tour it by bicycle.
- PolonnaruwaThe second capitalNorth centre
Large rock-cut Buddhas and palace foundations are well preserved. More compact than Anuradhapura.
- Dambulla cave templeFive caves of muralsNorth centre
About a hundred and fifty Buddha images sit in caves painted to the ceiling. Usually combined with Sigiriya.
- Sinharaja Forest ReserveThe last lowland rainforestSouthwest
Rainforest where the island’s endemic species concentrate. People come for the birds and amphibians.
Where to go
The usual loop joins the cultural triangle, the highlands and the coast.
- ColomboThe largest cityWest coast
Close to the international airport. A transit base more than a sight.
- KandyThe last royal capitalCentral Sri Lanka
A lake and the tooth temple, and the highland train leaves from here. Cooler than Colombo.
- EllaA tea-country villageCentral highlands
Cloud-covered hills and the Nine Arch Bridge. Plenty of good walking.
- The cultural triangleSigiriya, Dambulla, PolonnaruwaNorth centre
The sites sit close together, so two or three days covers them. Midday heat is severe.
- Mirissa and the southern beachesWhales and surfSouth coast
Blue whale watching runs December to April. Each beach has a different break.
- JaffnaTamil Sri LankaFar north
Hindu temples and food unlike the south. The traces of the civil war are still visible.
When to go
Two monsoons, so one side of the island is always clear.
- Southwest high seasonDecember to MarchColombo, Galle, Mirissa
Little rain and calm seas. Whale watching falls in this window too.
- Northeast high seasonMay to SeptemberTrincomalee and Arugam Bay
Clear here while the southwest is wet. Also the surf season.
- Southwest monsoonMay to SeptemberSouthwest
Concentrated in the afternoon. It rarely rains all day.
- Northeast monsoonOctober to JanuaryNortheast
Many east-coast places close in this period, while the west is at its peak.
- Esala PeraheraJuly to AugustKandy
A large night procession of elephants and dancers. Rooms book out early.
Before you go
Temple etiquette and wildlife-viewing rules are both explicit.
- EntryElectronic travel authorisation requiredEverywhere
Korean passports need an electronic travel authorisation in advance. Apply online.
- Temple etiquetteWhite clothing, bare feet, photo rulesBuddhist temples
Remove shoes and hats and cover shoulders and knees. Posing with your back to a Buddha image is offensive and can be penalised.
- Train ticketsReserved seats must be bought aheadThe highland line
Reserved seats sell weeks in advance. Unreserved tickets remain, but often mean standing.
- Safari conductVehicles crowding the animalsYala and Udawalawe
Jeeps frequently swarm a single leopard. Choose an operator that keeps its distance.
- MoneyRupee; largely cashEverywhere
Cards work in cities but villages and small restaurants are cash. The exchange rate has moved a lot.
- HealthDengue and waterEverywhere
Do not drink the tap water, and use repellent. Dengue flares up periodically.
- Emergency numbersPolice 119, ambulance 1990Everywhere
There is a separate tourist police. English is fairly widely understood.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.