Laos
The only landlocked country in Southeast Asia. Temple towns and limestone peaks follow the Mekong, and because travel is slow the days feel long.
Landmarks
The river, the limestone, and the dawn alms procession.
- Dawn alms givingTak batLuang Prabang
Monks file past to receive food at first light. It is a rite, not a show, so keep your distance and never use flash.
- Terraced turquoise fallsKuang Si FallsSouth of Luang Prabang
Dissolved limestone gives the water its colour. The upper pools allow swimming; the lower ones are protected.
- Limestone peaks and a riverVang ViengCentral Laos
The Nam Song runs between sharp karst towers. Balloons, caves and the blue lagoons are all here.
- Islands in the MekongSi Phan DonSouth, near the Cambodian border
The river widens into thousands of islands. Freshwater dolphins are sometimes seen from Don Det and Don Khon.
- The golden stupaPha That LuangVientiane
The national symbol, printed on the banknotes. A large festival fills it at the November full moon.
- A cave straight through a mountainKong Lor CaveKhammouane
You pass more than 7km of cave by boat. Getting there takes a full day.
World Heritage
One town, one temple, and stone jars nobody can fully explain.
- Luang PrabangThe whole royal townNorth
Temples and French colonial buildings on the peninsula where the Mekong meets the Nam Khan. The town itself is the site.
- Vat PhouA pre-Angkorian hillside templeChampasak, south
A Khmer temple aligned on a sacred mountain, older than Angkor. The surrounding landscape is part of the inscription.
- Plain of JarsGiant stone jarsXiangkhouang
Thousands of stone vessels whose purpose is still uncertain. Only areas cleared of unexploded ordnance are open.
- Hin Nam NoKarst and cave countryKhammouane, on the Vietnamese border
Limestone continuous with Phong Nha-Ke Bang in Vietnam. Access is still being developed, so check ahead.
Where to go
The standard route runs north to south down the river.
- Luang PrabangThe centre of most tripsNorth
Temples, a night market and waterfalls within easy reach. Several days here do not drag.
- VientianeThe capitalCentre, on the Thai border
A small, quiet capital. International flights and the railway branch from here.
- Vang ViengA town among the peaksCentral Laos
The old party reputation has largely been cleaned up in favour of outdoor activities.
- PakseGateway to the southSouth
The base for the Bolaven coffee farms and for Vat Phou.
- Bolaven PlateauCoffee and waterfallsSouthern interior
Cool because of the altitude. A motorbike loop linking the waterfalls is well known.
- Nong KhiawRiver viewsNorthern hills
A riverside village between cliffs, with steep climbs to viewpoints. Reached from Luang Prabang by bus or boat.
When to go
The dry season is the travel season, and spring brings smoke.
- Cool dry seasonNovember to FebruaryEverywhere
The easiest time to travel. Northern hill mornings are genuinely cold, so bring a layer.
- Burning season hazeMarch to AprilNorth
Field burning greys the sky and erases the views. Better to avoid the northern hills then.
- Wet seasonMay to OctoberEverywhere
Waterfalls run hardest and everything is green. Unpaved roads can be cut.
- Lao New YearMid-AprilEverywhere
Water throwing that runs for more than three days. Transport and shops stop, so plan around it.
- That Luang FestivalAround the November full moonVientiane
Processions around the stupa and a large fair. Rooms fill in advance.
Before you go
This is a slow country. Budgeting generous travel time is the first piece of planning.
- EntryVisa-free for short tourist staysEverywhere
Korean passports need no visa for short tourist stays. The permitted length can change, so check before leaving.
- MoneyKip, and mostly cashEverywhere
Many places do not take cards, and ATM withdrawal limits are low. Carry enough cash.
- The railwayVientiane to Luang Prabang and BotenCentre and north
A day-long bus ride is now a couple of hours. Tickets sell out, so buy ahead.
- Unexploded ordnanceStay on marked pathsEast and Xiangkhouang
Heavily bombed areas still hold unexploded ordnance. Do not cut across fields; stick to cleared tracks.
- Temple etiquetteCover shoulders and kneesTemples
Remove your shoes, and avoid physical contact with monks. This applies particularly to women.
- HealthWater, mosquitoes, medical capacityEverywhere
Do not drink the tap water. Major hospitals are scarce and serious cases are evacuated to Thailand, so check your insurance.
- Emergency numbersPolice 191, ambulance 195, fire 190Everywhere
English may not be spoken. Calling through your accommodation is usually faster.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.