Cambodia

A country shaped by the Mekong and the Tonle Sap. Stone temples left by the Angkorian empire stand alongside the heavy traces of its recent history.

Landmarks

Temples and a lake, and a place that should not be skipped.

The largest religious structure on earthAngkor WatSiem Reap
A moated, west-facing temple, so at sunrise five towers appear in the pond. Dawn is the busiest hour.
Towers carved as facesBayon and Angkor ThomSiem Reap
Large faces look out from every tower. The walls carry battles and everyday market scenes.
The temple the trees tookTa ProhmSiem Reap
Fig roots grip the stone walls. It is a rare case of restoring a temple while leaving the trees in place.
Villages on the waterTonle Sap lakeSouth of Siem Reap
The lake swells several times over in the wet season and houses float on it. Some tours here are contentious, so check who runs them.
Places to rememberTuol Sleng and the Killing FieldsPhnom Penh
A Khmer Rouge prison and execution site preserved as they were. Go prepared; they are hard to walk through.
Pepper farms and a river townKampotSouth
Internationally known pepper country with a quiet riverside town. Bokor National Park is close by.

Capitals from before and after Angkor.

AngkorThe whole temple citySiem Reap
Not one building but tens of kilometres of temples and reservoirs. Buy a multi-day pass and spread it out.
Preah VihearA temple on a cliff edgeNorth, on the Thai border
Built along an axis running to the edge of a 500m escarpment. Access is occasionally restricted by border conditions.
Sambor Prei KukA pre-Angkorian capitalKampong Thom
Seventh-century Chenla brick temples scattered through forest. Few visitors, and quiet.
Koh KerA stepped pyramidPreah Vihear province
Briefly the capital in the tenth century, leaving a seven-tier pyramid. A day trip from Siem Reap.

Siem Reap and Phnom Penh as the two poles, with the southern coast added on.

Siem ReapGateway to AngkorNorthwest
Seeing the temples properly takes three days. Direct flights arrive from Korea.
Phnom PenhThe capitalSouth centre
The royal palace, national museum and a riverside promenade. The modern history sites are here too.
Sihanoukville and the islandsThe southern seaSouthwest coast
The city has changed a great deal with development, but islands like Koh Rong stay quiet.
BattambangFrench colonial streetsNorthwest
Colonial buildings among rice fields. Known for the bamboo train.
KepA crab-market beach townSouth
Known for crab cooked with Kampot pepper. Usually visited together with Kampot.
MondulkiriHighlands and elephantsEast
Cool because of the altitude. Watching elephants in sanctuaries rather than riding them is now the norm.

A clear dry and wet season, and temple walking is a fight with the heat.

Dry seasonNovember to FebruaryEverywhere
Cooler and drier, the best window for temples. Also the peak season.
Hot seasonMarch to MayEverywhere
Close to 40C. Visit temples only in early morning and late afternoon.
Wet seasonJune to OctoberEverywhere
An hour or two of afternoon rain, then it stops. Deep green, fewer people, lower prices.
When the lake risesHighest September to NovemberTonle Sap
The Mekong reverses into the lake and it grows several times over. The floating villages are at their most striking then.
Water FestivalAround the November full moonPhnom Penh
Boat races fill the city. Book accommodation and transport ahead.

Cash and US dollars circulate together, and some areas still carry landmine risk.

EntryVisa required; visa on arrival or e-visaEverywhere
Korean passports do need a tourist visa. Get an e-visa in advance or a visa on arrival at the airport, and check your passport validity.
MoneyRiel and US dollars circulate togetherEverywhere
Prices are quoted in dollars and change comes back in riel. Worn or torn dollar notes are refused.
Angkor passOne, three or seven daysSiem Reap
Issued with your photo at the ticket office and checked at each temple. It cannot be transferred.
Temple dressCover shoulders and kneesAngkor and temples
Sleeveless tops and short shorts will keep you out of parts of the site. Light long clothing is better in the heat anyway.
SafetyStay on marked pathsRural northwest
Landmines remain in some areas. Even at ruins, keep to cleared tracks.
HealthWater and mosquitoesEverywhere
Do not drink the tap water. Dengue is present, so use repellent.
Emergency numbersPolice 117, ambulance 119, fire 118Everywhere
English may not be spoken. In tourist areas it is faster to call through your accommodation.

Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.