Kenya
An East African country the equator runs through. The great migration, the Indian Ocean coast and a 5,000m glaciated peak all belong to it.
Landmarks
Grassland and lakes, and an old coastal town.
- The grassland the migration crossesMaasai MaraSouthwest
The same ecosystem as the Serengeti across the border. Wildebeest cross the Mara River from July to October.
- Elephants against KilimanjaroAmboseliSouth, on the Tanzanian border
The mountain is in Tanzania, but this is where it is best seen. Elephants with large tusks still live here.
- A lake covered in flamingosLake NakuruRift Valley
Flamingo numbers swing widely with water level and salinity. It is also a rhino sanctuary.
- Glaciers on the equatorMount Kenya, 5,199mCentral Kenya
Africa's second-highest mountain. The true summit is a technical climb, but Point Lenana is walkable.
- An island town with no carsLamu Old TownNorth coast
A Swahili town where donkeys and boats are the transport. Security concerns sometimes restrict access.
- A national park against a cityNairobi National ParkSouth of Nairobi
Lions and giraffes with the skyline behind them. A half-day option when time is short.
World Heritage
The Swahili coast and the Rift Valley lakes.
- Lamu Old TownThe oldest Swahili settlementNorth coast
Houses of coral stone and mangrove timber are still lived in. The most intact example in East Africa.
- Fort JesusA sixteenth-century Portuguese fortMombasa
Built to hold the Indian Ocean route, and cited as an example of Renaissance military architecture.
- Lake Turkana National ParksWhere the fossils come fromNorthwest
The largest desert lake in the world, and the source of many early hominin fossils. Very hard to reach.
- Kenya Lake System in the Rift ValleyBogoria, Nakuru and ElementaitaWest centre
Three shallow soda lakes inscribed together. Flamingos and waterbirds gather in huge numbers.
Where to go
Nairobi for the plains, Mombasa for the sea.
- NairobiThe capitalSouth centre
The international gateway. A giraffe centre and elephant orphanage sit close to town.
- The MaraThe heart of safariSouthwest
An hour by light aircraft, five or six by road. Rules differ between lodges inside and outside the reserve.
- Diani BeachThe Indian OceanSouth coast
White sand and a reef. Commonly tacked on for a few days after a safari.
- MombasaThe port cityEast coast
Reached from Nairobi by fast train. The fort, an old town, and Swahili food.
- SamburuThe dry northern reserveNorth centre
Species found only in the north live here, like Grevy's zebra and reticulated giraffe. Far fewer visitors.
- Lake NaivashaHippos and cycling safarisRift Valley
Two hours from Nairobi, so a weekend trip. At Hell’s Gate you ride a bicycle across the plain.
When to go
On the equator, rain and animal movement mark the seasons more than temperature.
- The migrationJuly to OctoberMaasai Mara
Wildebeest and zebra cross from the Serengeti. The busiest and most expensive window.
- Dry seasonJanuary to March, June to OctoberEverywhere
Short grass and animals concentrated at water make spotting easy. Roads are also in better shape.
- Long rainsApril to MayEverywhere
Dirt roads turn to mud and some camps close. The cheapest time of year.
- Short rainsNovember to DecemberEverywhere
A brief afternoon shower, then it clears. Good for birding, in fact.
- The coastHot and humid all yearMombasa and Diani
April to June is the wettest. Otherwise a beach stay works fine.
Before you go
Vaccinations and malaria prophylaxis come first.
- EntryElectronic travel authorisation requiredEverywhere
Visas were abolished, but you must obtain an electronic travel authorisation before departure. Approval takes days, so apply early.
- VaccinationA yellow fever certificate may be requiredAt immigration
Depending on the countries you transit, proof of yellow fever vaccination is asked for. Discuss malaria prophylaxis with a doctor too.
- Safari costsPark fees are separateNational parks and reserves
A per-day park fee is charged on top of accommodation. Check whether your quote includes it.
- MoneyShilling, with M-Pesa transfers everywhereEverywhere
Mobile money is as common as cash. Visitors do better carrying both a card and cash.
- SafetyVaries sharply by regionEverywhere
The northeast near the Somali border and parts of the coast carry travel advisories. Check your foreign ministry before leaving.
- LanguageSwahili and English are officialEverywhere
English is the language of schooling and administration, so communication is straightforward. A few Swahili greetings go a long way.
- Emergency numbers999 or 112Everywhere
Signal drops inside reserves. In practice the lodge and guide radios are your line out.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.