Jordan
Desert, the Dead Sea, and a city carved out of rock. The country is small enough to cross north to south in a week, with short hops between sites.
Landmarks
A rock city, a red desert, and a sea you cannot sink in.
- A temple facade at the end of a gorgeThe Treasury at PetraSouth
It appears suddenly after more than a kilometre of narrow canyon. The site is large, and one day is not enough.
- The red desertWadi RumSouth
Sandstone towers rise out of the sand, and you spend a night at a Bedouin camp. Films are shot here constantly.
- A sea below sea levelThe Dead Sea, −430mWest
Salinity keeps you afloat. It stings badly on shaving cuts or grazes, so be careful.
- A Roman city nearly wholeJerashNorth
A colonnaded street, theatres and a triumphal arch survive. An hour from Amman.
- A reserve stacked by altitudeDana Biosphere ReserveSouth centre
A trail drops from 1,500m to the desert floor in one go. Popular with walkers.
- Diving in the Red SeaAqabaFar south
Jordan's only sea access, with reefs close in. The water temperature is nothing like the Dead Sea.
World Heritage
Nabataean, Roman, early Islamic and Christian layers overlap.
- PetraA city cut from rockSouth
The Nabataean capital, with tombs and temples carved into sandstone cliffs. Its water engineering was especially sophisticated.
- Wadi Rum Protected AreaDesert and rock artSouth
Inscribed as a mixed site for the landscape together with twelve thousand years of petroglyphs and inscriptions.
- Quseir AmraAn Umayyad desert retreatEastern desert
Eighth-century bathhouse ceilings still carry frescoes of people and animals, a rare survival of early Islamic painting.
- The baptism siteBethany Beyond the JordanWest
Held to be where Jesus was baptised, with church foundations and pilgrimage buildings.
Where to go
A single line running south from Amman is the standard route.
- AmmanThe capitalNorth centre
White buildings cover seven hills. A Roman theatre and the citadel sit in the centre.
- Wadi MusaThe town at Petra’s gateSouth
Right at the entrance, so many people stay two nights. There is a candlelit evening event.
- MadabaThe mosaic townCentre
A sixth-century mosaic map of the Holy Land survives in a church floor. Mount Nebo is nearby.
- The King's HighwayThe old road between the sitesSouth centre
Taking this instead of the motorway passes Karak castle and Dana. Slower, but with much more to see.
- AqabaA beach cityFar south
A free zone, so slightly cheaper. The Egyptian and Israeli borders are close.
- Desert castlesUmayyad-era buildingsEast
A day loop east from Amman. Quiet, with few visitors.
When to go
Spring and autumn are best; summer in the desert is dangerously hot.
- SpringMarch to MayEverywhere
Wildflowers and the best walking weather. Also the busiest.
- AutumnSeptember to NovemberEverywhere
The heat lifts and the skies clear. Peak season alongside spring.
- SummerJune to AugustDesert and Dead Sea
Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea pass 40C. Midday activity has to be avoided.
- WinterDecember to FebruaryAmman and Petra
High enough that snow falls in some years. Desert nights go below freezing.
- Flash floodsWinter rainCanyons and wadis
Dry gorges fill without warning. Cancel canyon walks if rain is forecast.
Before you go
Watch the regional situation, but the country itself is generally stable.
- EntryVisa required; the Jordan Pass helpsEverywhere
Korean passports do need a tourist visa. Buying a Jordan Pass in advance bundles the visa waiver with site entry.
- Jordan PassTiers differ by days at PetraEverywhere
Sold online only, before you arrive. There is a minimum-stay condition, so check it.
- MoneyDinar; not a cheap countryEverywhere
Costs run higher than neighbouring countries. Site entry fees in particular are steep.
- DressCover shoulders and kneesCities and villages
Outside tourist areas the norm is conservative. Dead Sea resorts are relaxed.
- WaterOne of the most water-scarce countriesEverywhere
Water is genuinely short here. Keeping showers and pool use modest is a courtesy.
- The regionCheck conditions near the bordersWestern and northern frontiers
Crossings and travel in some areas can be restricted by events next door. Check your foreign ministry before leaving.
- Emergency number911Everywhere
Reaches police, ambulance and fire. Tourist police are posted at the main sites.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.