Ireland
An island on the Atlantic. Wind-cut cliffs, green fields, and pubs where the literature and the music still live are what a trip here is built around.
Landmarks
Cliffs and stone pavements in the west, a library in the east.
- Cliffs facing the AtlanticCliffs of Moher, 214mCounty Clare, west coast
More than 8km of sheer drop. Wind and fog are constant, so a clear day is hard to pick.
- A coast of hexagonal columnsGiant's CausewayCounty Antrim, Northern Ireland
Forty thousand basalt columns step down into the sea. This is UK territory, so currency and rules change.
- A gospel book twelve centuries oldBook of Kells and the Long RoomTrinity College, Dublin
The illuminated manuscript and the long library above it are seen together. Timed tickets are worth booking ahead.
- A loop around a peninsulaRing of KerryCounty Kerry, southwest
A 180km circuit joining coast, mountain and lake. Driving against the tour coaches makes it far easier.
- A pavement of stoneThe BurrenCounty Clare
Fissured limestone lies bare, and rare wildflowers grow in the cracks. Prehistoric dolmens stand on it too.
- Music that starts itselfTrad sessionsGalway, Doolin, Dublin
Players sit in a circle with no stage. It is a gathering rather than a concert, so conversation runs alongside.
World Heritage
A prehistoric burial complex and a monastery in the Atlantic. Just the two.
- Brú na BóinneTombs older than the pyramidsCounty Meath, Boyne Valley
The Newgrange passage tomb was built so light reaches the inner chamber only on the winter solstice. Entry is through the visitor centre.
- Skellig MichaelA monastery on a sea rockOff County Kerry
Beehive cells sit above six hundred steep stone steps. Boats cannot sail in poor weather, so cancellations are common even in summer.
Where to go
Dublin as the hub, then down the west coast.
- DublinThe capitalEast coast
Literary sites, museums and pub streets within walking distance. Most international flights land here.
- GalwayThe music cityWest coast
Street performers and sessions fill the narrow streets. The base for Moher and the Burren.
- KillarneyLakes and a national parkSouthwest
The starting point for the Ring of Kerry and the park. People tour the park by jaunting car or bicycle.
- CorkThe southern centreSouth coast
A covered English market and riverside streets. Blarney Castle is nearby.
- BelfastCapital of Northern IrelandNortheast
The Titanic museum and mural tours that trace the Troubles. The currency changes to sterling.
- Dingle PeninsulaA quieter coastal driveCounty Kerry
Fewer people than the Ring of Kerry, and narrower roads. Some villages use Irish as an everyday language.
When to go
Mild all year, but it rains often and four seasons pass in a day.
- SummerJune to AugustEverywhere
Light lasts until ten at night, so the days are long. Busiest, and rooms cost more.
- Spring and autumnApril to May, September to OctoberEverywhere
Fewer people, and the fields at their greenest. The best balance for a trip.
- WinterNovember to FebruaryEverywhere
Not cold, but dark early and very windy. Many island ferries stop running.
- RainIn every monthEspecially the west coast
Sun and showers swap several times within a day. Waterproofs matter regardless of season.
- St Patrick's Day17 MarchEverywhere
The whole country stops for parades and festivals. Book rooms and transport months ahead.
Before you go
Two countries on one island, so currency and rules change partway.
- EntryVisa-free short stays; not in SchengenEverywhere
Ireland is in the EU but outside Schengen. Time here is counted separately from your Schengen allowance.
- Northern IrelandDifferent currency and rulesNorth
There is no border check, so you cross without noticing. It uses sterling, not euro, and your mobile plan changes too.
- MoneyEuro; cards accepted almost everywhereRepublic of Ireland
Only small pubs and rural shops need cash. Tipping is not obligatory.
- DrivingOn the left, and rural lanes are narrowEverywhere
Single-track roads between stone walls mean backing up for oncoming cars. Check the rental insurance terms carefully.
- What to packA waterproof jacket and comfortable shoesEverywhere
Umbrellas invert in the wind and are little use. A hooded waterproof works better.
- LanguageEnglish, with Irish also officialEverywhere
Signs carry both. In parts of the west known as the Gaeltacht, Irish is the everyday language.
- Emergency numbers112 or 999Everywhere
Both reach the same service, in Northern Ireland as well.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.