Hungary
A capital split by the Danube, and thermal baths. Cheap by European standards, which makes it good for a long stay.
Icons
Budapest alone will fill several days.
- A parliament on the riverThe Hungarian Parliament BuildingPest, Budapest
A neo-Gothic building facing the Danube, among the largest in Europe. The defining view is from the Buda hills across the water at night; inside is guided tours only.
- A bathhouse that looks like a palaceSzéchenyi BathsCity Park, Budapest
Known for the image of people playing chess up to their chests in steaming outdoor pools. Bringing your own towel and sandals is cheaper, and winter is the better season.
- A fairytale colonnadeFisherman’s Bastion and Matthias ChurchBuda hill
White stone towers and arches forming a viewing terrace over the river and parliament. Only the upper level charges; early morning it is empty.
- Bars inside derelict buildingsThe ruin barsDistrict VII, Budapest
Abandoned courtyards filled with salvaged furniture, of which Szimpla is the original. Quiet by day, packed at night, with the courtyards open in summer.
- Where the river turnsThe Danube Bend: Szentendre and VisegrádNorth of Budapest
Artists’ towns and castles along the stretch where the river swings sharply. An easy day trip by boat or train.
- Wine famous for its sweetnessThe Tokaj wine regionNorth-east
Sweet wine made from noble-rotted grapes, with a documented history of being drunk by kings. Cellar tours with tastings are standard.
World Heritage
A riverfront cityscape, caves, and vineyards.
- A city seen from the riverBanks of the Danube and the Buda Castle QuarterBudapest
The view itself — the buildings and bridges on both banks — is what is inscribed. Lit at night, the reason becomes obvious.
- An avenue and an underground lineAndrássy Avenue and the Millennium UndergroundBudapest
The oldest electric underground railway on the European continent runs beneath this street. The yellow line-one carriages are still in service.
- A vineyard landscapeTokaj Wine Region Historic Cultural LandscapeNorth-east
Growing methods and cellars going back close to a thousand years, inscribed together. Cellars are open in every village.
- A village kept as it wasOld Village of HollókőNorth
A small village of preserved Palóc farmhouses and lanes. Traditional dress comes out at the Easter festival.
Where to go
Budapest works well as a base with day trips out.
- BudapestThe capital, and most of the itineraryCentre
Baths, night views and bar streets in one city. International flights and trains all arrive here.
- SzentendreAn artists’ town on the riverNorthern outskirts
Pastel houses and small galleries, forty minutes out on the suburban railway. Half a day is enough.
- EgerA castle and red wineNorth-east
Known for the fortress that held off an Ottoman siege and for its red wine. Tastings are in the cellar street outside town.
- Lake BalatonThe largest lake in central EuropeWest
Where Hungarians go in summer; the south shore is shallow and the north has vineyards and thermal springs. Under two hours by train.
- PécsOttoman traces in the southSouth
A church converted from a mosque, and an early Christian necropolis. A university town, so it has some life to it.
- HortobágyOpen grassland without endEast
One of the last great grazing plains in Europe, with grey cattle and horse herds. Herdsmen’s displays run to a schedule.
When to go
The baths are better when it is cold.
- SpringApril–MayNationwide
Milder weather before the crowds. Good for the riverside and for trips out of town.
- SummerJune–AugustNationwide
High season at Balaton and a full calendar of outdoor festivals. The city gets hot, so midday is better spent indoors.
- AutumnSeptember–OctoberNationwide
Harvest season, which is when Tokaj and Eger are at their best. Fewer people and lower prices.
- WinterNovember–FebruaryNationwide
Steam rising off an outdoor pool is the point of the season. Christmas markets fill the squares.
Before you go
The one thing to remember is that it does not use the euro.
- EntrySchengen short stayNationwide
Up to ninety days in any one hundred and eighty across the Schengen area. The European travel authorisation scheme is being phased in, so check the official guidance before you leave.
- MoneyForint, not the euroNationwide
Some places take euros at a distinctly poor rate. Street exchange booths charge heavily, so use a bank or a card.
- What to take to the bathsTowel, sandals and a swimming capNationwide
Hiring them on site is expensive, so bring your own. Some indoor lane pools require a cap.
- Getting aroundMetro and trams; trains between citiesNationwide
Budapest tickets are validated once at the machine, and inspectors are frequent. Trains between cities are cheap and comfortable.
- LanguageHungarian, unrelated to its neighboursNationwide
It is related to none of the surrounding languages, so nothing can be guessed. English works well in Budapest and less so in the countryside.
- Emergency number112Nationwide
The pan-European number reaching police, ambulance and fire. Watch for exchange scams and overcharging bars in tourist areas.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.