Croatia
Walled towns and islands strung along the Adriatic, and inland a lake district where the water falls from one level to the next.
Icons
The sea, the walls, and the colour of the water are the face of the country.
- Walls wrapped around the seaThe Dubrovnik city wallsSouthern Dalmatia
A two-kilometre circuit on top of the walls with red roofs on one side and open water on the other. There is almost no shade, so go at opening or late in the day, and avoid cruise-ship days.
- Lakes falling one into the nextPlitvice Lakes National ParkInland centre
Sixteen lakes stepped down a valley, joined by waterfalls, with timber walkways laid across the water. Entry numbers are capped, so book a date and time in advance.
- A city built inside a palaceDiocletian’s PalaceSplit
People moved into a Roman emperor’s retirement palace and over fifteen hundred years filled it with lanes and shops. Having coffee inside a Roman monument is a rare thing.
- Waterfalls you can walk intoKrka National ParkNear Šibenik
Smaller than Plitvice, but the boardwalks run right up to the falls. Swimming below them was once allowed and is now restricted, so follow the signs on the day.
- An island of lavender and sunHvarCentral Dalmatia
Among the sunniest islands in Europe, and known for its summer nightlife. An hour or so from Split by boat, with further boats out to the Pakleni islands.
- Forests that grow trufflesInland IstriaNorth-west
White truffles come from the woods below hill towns like Motovun and Grožnjan. Autumn is the season, and you can go out hunting them with a dog.
World Heritage
Often it is an entire coastal town that is inscribed.
- The city inside the wallsOld City of DubrovnikSouth
Heavily shelled in the 1990s and since restored. The slightly different roof colours are the record of it.
- An emperor’s palaceHistorical Complex of Split with Diocletian’s PalaceCentre
A rare case of late Roman architecture surviving as the actual street plan of a city. The underground halls are especially intact.
- Landscape made by waterPlitvice LakesInland
Travertine builds up into natural dams and the water spills over them, terracing the lakes. The formation is still growing.
- Gold mosaicsEuphrasian Basilica, PorečIstria
Sixth-century Byzantine mosaics surviving almost complete. The bell tower gives you the town and the sea.
Where to go
The country runs long down the coast, so you move by bus or boat.
- DubrovnikThe best-known walled citySouth
The old town is pedestrian only. The cable car up the hill behind gives you the whole city and the islands at once.
- SplitThe gateway to the islandsCentre
Roman ruins and a seafront promenade, with boats leaving for the islands all day. Better value than Dubrovnik.
- ZagrebThe capital, and inlandNorthern interior
Central European squares and museums, and a well-known Christmas market. International flights arrive here.
- ZadarA city the sea playsNorthern coast
A sea organ sounded by waves through pipes, and a solar-powered light installation set into the quay. A known place to watch the sunset.
- The Istrian peninsulaHill towns and foodNorth-west
The Roman amphitheatre at Pula and the harbour town of Rovinj are the highlights. Italy is close, and the language and food show it.
- Korčula and the quieter islandsIslands with fewer peopleSouthern waters
A walled town and vineyards, calmer than Hvar. Ferry frequency drops sharply out of season, so check first.
When to go
The gap between seasons shows in prices and in ferry timetables.
- SpringApril–JuneNationwide
The national parks carry the most water and the fewest people. By June the sea is swimmable.
- SummerJuly–AugustNationwide
The coast is at its busiest and dearest. Book both ferries and rooms ahead.
- AutumnSeptember–OctoberNationwide
The sea is still warm and Istria is in truffle season. Widely considered the best time to come.
- WinterNovember–MarchNationwide
The coastal towns go quiet and island ferries thin out. The Zagreb Christmas market exists only now.
Before you go
On the euro and inside Schengen, so it combines easily with its neighbours.
- EntrySchengen short stayNationwide
Croatia joined the Schengen area in 2023. Up to ninety days in any one hundred and eighty across the whole area.
- MoneyEuroNationwide
The kuna was replaced by the euro in 2023. Older guides may still quote kuna, so check which unit you are reading.
- National park ticketsTimed entryPlitvice and Krka
Daily numbers are capped, so buying at the gate is difficult in high season. Pick a date and time on the official site.
- FerriesCar ferries and fast passenger boatsThe whole coast
Car ferries and foot-passenger catamarans are separate services at different prices and speeds. Sailings drop sharply in winter.
- CrowdsCruise-ship daysDubrovnik
When the large ships are in, the old town is shoulder to shoulder. The port schedule is published, so planning around it changes the day entirely.
- Emergency number112Nationwide
The pan-European number reaching police, ambulance and fire. English is widely spoken along the coast.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.