Hong Kong
Towers packed between the hills and the sea. Half an hour from the centre puts you on an island or a hiking trail.
Icons
Height, water, and some very old ways of getting about.
- The hill above the cityVictoria PeakHong Kong Island
A steep tram climbs to a view taking in the towers and the harbour at once. The queue is longest around sunset.
- A crossing running for over a centuryStar FerryVictoria Harbour
Green boats linking the island and Kowloon for a very small fare. It is the cheapest way to see the night skyline.
- Buildings lit in unisonA Symphony of LightsTsim Sha Tsui waterfront
Towers on both shores light up to music each evening. It is cancelled in bad weather.
- A bronze Buddha on the hillTian Tan BuddhaLantau Island
A huge seated figure reached by a staircase, beside Po Lin Monastery. The cable car ride up is famous in itself.
- Double-decker street tramsThe ding dingNorth shore, Hong Kong Island
Narrow, tall trams crossing the city slowly. The front seat upstairs is the one to aim for.
- A street market that opens after darkTemple StreetKowloon
Stalls appear at sunset, alongside singing and fortune tellers. Bargaining is expected.
Where to go
The island, the peninsula, and the New Territories beyond.
- Hong Kong IslandFinance district and hillsSouth
The business centre, the Peak and the southern beaches all on one island. It is steep enough to need an outdoor escalator system.
- KowloonMarkets and museumsThe peninsula
The Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront is where you look back at the island skyline. Market streets run one into the next.
- Lantau IslandThe airport and the BuddhaWest
The largest island, holding the airport, the Big Buddha and a stilt fishing village. Hiking trails are well made.
- Cheung ChauA small island without carsThe southwestern sea
Under an hour by ferry, covered on foot or by bicycle. Fishing harbour scenery and seafood restaurants.
- New TerritoriesWetlands and walled villagesNorth
Nothing like the centre: paddy, marsh and old walled settlements survive. There is a reserve for migratory birds.
When to go
Subtropical, with a hot and humid summer.
- SpringMarch to MayThroughout
Mist and humidity can blur the views. Temperatures are manageable.
- SummerJune to SeptemberThroughout
Hot, humid and the typhoon season. When a warning is raised, transport and shops stop.
- AutumnOctober to NovemberThroughout
Clear and cooler, the easiest time to visit. Better for both hiking and night views.
- WinterDecember to FebruaryThroughout
Cool and dry, never below freezing. Indoor heating is often weak.
Before you go
Start from the fact that its system differs from the mainland.
- EntryVisa-free short stay for Korean passportsThroughout
Immigration is run separately from the mainland, so a China visa is not needed for Hong Kong alone. Crossing into the mainland does require one.
- Transit cardOctopus cardThroughout
Works on metro, bus, tram and in convenience stores. Foreign contactless cards also work on the metro.
- MoneyHong Kong dollar, cash and card both usedThroughout
Markets and small restaurants prefer cash. It is a different currency from the mainland yuan.
- LanguageCantonese and EnglishThroughout
Signage and announcements come in English as standard. Younger people generally also speak Mandarin.
- Typhoon signalsSignal 8 shuts the cityThroughout
At higher warning levels transport, shops and attractions all close. Check the weather notices daily if travelling in summer.
- Emergency number999Throughout
Reaches police, ambulance and fire, with English available. On hiking trails, quoting the nearest marker post number speeds up rescue.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.