Greece
Ancient sites and the Aegean islands. The usual shape of a trip is the myths on the mainland, then a boat out to the sea.
Icons
The ruins of Athens and the white villages of the islands are the two poles.
- A temple above the cityThe Acropolis and the ParthenonAthens
A fifth-century BC temple on a rock in the middle of the city, visible from everywhere. There is no shade at all, so opening time or late afternoon is far better than midday.
- White villages on a cliffOia and Fira, SantoriniCyclades
White houses and blue domes stacked down a cliff above a bay left by a collapsed volcano. Oia at sunset is the busiest it gets, so take your spot an hour early.
- Monasteries on rock pillarsMeteoraThessaly
Six monasteries survive on top of sandstone pillars hundreds of metres high. They were once reached only by rope and ladder; there are steps now, and a dress code.
- What they thought was the centre of the worldDelphiCentral mainland
The sanctuary people came to from across Greece for the oracle, with temples and a theatre running up the hillside. Well served by day trips from Athens.
- The palace of MinosKnossosHeraklion, Crete
The palace of Europe’s oldest civilisation, and the setting of the labyrinth story. Its reconstruction is disputed, which makes reading the signage about what is original genuinely interesting.
- A dinner that takes all eveningTavernas and mezeNationwide
Order many small plates, share them, and stay a long time. Dinner normally starts after nine, and most places bring a small dessert to the table unasked.
World Heritage
Mostly ancient sites, then monasteries and medieval cities.
- Ancient AthensAcropolis, AthensAthens
The whole hill, Parthenon included, is inscribed. The finds are gathered in the Acropolis Museum below.
- The sanctuary of the oracleArchaeological Site of DelphiCentral mainland
Temples, treasuries and a stadium terraced up a hillside. The bronze charioteer in the museum is the headline piece.
- Monasteries on the rocksMeteoraThessaly
A rare case inscribed for both nature and culture. Each monastery closes on different days, so check first.
- A walled city built by knightsMedieval City of RhodesDodecanese
People still live inside the walls the crusader knights left. The island itself is a summer resort, so the two go together.
Where to go
On the islands the ferry timetable sets the itinerary — check boats before booking rooms.
- AthensThe capital, and where every boat and flight startsMainland
Sites and museums link up on foot, and the island ferries leave from Piraeus. Two days covers the main ruins.
- SantoriniThe best-known islandCyclades
Cliff villages, black sand beaches and a boat trip to the volcano are the standard. Peak summer prices are several times the off-season.
- MykonosWhite lanes and nightlifeCyclades
Known for its narrow lanes, windmills and beach clubs. Delos, thirty minutes away by boat, is an entire island of ruins and a World Heritage site.
- CreteThe largest island, a region in itselfSouthern sea
Ruins, gorge walks and beaches together fill a week. The Samaria Gorge only opens in summer.
- ThessalonikiThe second cityNorth
Byzantine churches and Ottoman traces, and a serious reputation for food. It pairs naturally with Meteora.
- The PeloponneseA peninsula scattered with ruinsSouthern mainland
Olympia, Mycenae and Epidaurus connect by road with sea villages in between. With a car it makes a three or four day loop.
When to go
The worst of the heat and the island high season fall together.
- SpringApril–JuneNationwide
The best time for walking the archaeological sites. By May the sea is swimmable.
- SummerJuly–AugustNationwide
The islands are at their busiest and dearest. Mainland sites approach forty degrees at midday, so go early.
- AutumnSeptember–OctoberNationwide
The sea is still warm and the crowds have thinned — the best balance. Island businesses start closing from mid-October.
- WinterNovember–MarchNationwide
Athens and the mainland work fine, but small islands lose most of their ferries and rooms. There are ski resorts in the northern mountains.
Before you go
Ferries and heat are half the planning.
- EntrySchengen short stayNationwide
Up to ninety days in any one hundred and eighty across the Schengen area. The European travel authorisation scheme is being phased in, so check the official guidance before you leave.
- FerriesFrom Piraeus; fast and conventional boatsNationwide
The same route often has both, at very different prices and times. Strong wind cancels sailings, so come back from the islands a day before your flight.
- MoneyEuro; cash on the smaller islandsNationwide
Cards work well in the cities, but small-island tavernas and taxis are sometimes cash only. Draw some before you sail.
- Monastery dressShoulders and knees coveredMeteora and monasteries
Shorts and sleeveless tops are refused, and some places require a skirt for women. Wraps are sometimes lent at the door, but bring a light layer.
- HeatForty degrees at midsummerNationwide
Archaeological sites have almost no shade, so a hat and water are essential. During heatwaves the Acropolis sometimes closes over the middle of the day.
- Emergency number112Nationwide
The pan-European number reaching police, ambulance and fire. English is widely spoken in tourist areas.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.