Georgia
A country between the Black Sea and the Caucasus. Eight thousand years of winemaking and villages beyond a 2,000m pass belong to the same small place.
Landmarks
Mountains, monasteries, and wine.
- A trinity church under a snow peakGergeti TrinityKazbegi, north
A lone church on a 2,170m shoulder with the 5,000m Mount Kazbek behind it. Three hours from Tbilisi by car.
- Wine buried in clayQvevri winemakingKakheti, east
Large clay vessels buried in the ground, a method carried for eight thousand years. It is on the intangible heritage list.
- The sulphur bath quarterAbanotubaniOld Tbilisi
Brick domes push up out of the ground over the bathhouses. Private rooms are rented by the hour.
- A city cut into a cliffVardziaSouth, toward the Turkish border
A twelfth-century monastery city carved in tiers inside the rock. An earthquake sheared off the front, exposing the section.
- One of the highest villages in EuropeUshguli, 2,100mSvaneti, northwest
Medieval stone towers stand in every hamlet. Snow cuts the road, so winter access is difficult.
- A subtropical Black Sea coastBatumiWest coast
A port city of palm trees and high-rises. The climate is nothing like the interior.
World Heritage
Monasteries, an old capital, and a mountain valley.
- Historical monuments of MtskhetaChurches of the old capital20km north of Tbilisi
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and the Jvari monastery on the hill above. The centre of Georgian Orthodoxy.
- Gelati MonasteryA medieval centre of learningNear Kutaisi
Founded in the twelfth century with an academy alongside the monastery, and its mosaics survive.
- Upper SvanetiMountain villages of stone towersNorthwest
Defensive towers built against raids still stand by each house. The whole landscape is inscribed.
- Colchic rainforests and wetlandsTemperate rainforest on the Black SeaWest
Forest and peat bog that survived the ice ages. Bird migration routes pass through.
Where to go
Tbilisi as the hub: wine to the east, mountains to the north.
- TbilisiThe capitalEast
Baths, an old town and Soviet-era architecture side by side. Low costs mean many people stay a while.
- KakhetiWine countryEast
Wineries scattered around Sighnaghi and Telavi. Manageable as a day trip.
- KazbegiA mountain town at the end of the highwayNorth, near the Russian border
Reached up the Georgian Military Highway. Snow closes the road on some winter days.
- SvanetiThe most remote highlandsNorthwest
Mestia is reached by small plane or a long drive. The multi-day trek from here is well known.
- KutaisiThe western centreWestern interior
A hub for European low-cost flights. Caves and canyons are close by.
- BatumiA beach cityBlack Sea coast
Busy as a summer resort. The Turkish border is right beside it.
When to go
The mountains and the coast run on completely different seasons.
- SpringApril to JuneEverywhere
Green fields and few visitors. High passes are still closed by snow.
- SummerJuly to AugustMountains and coast
Every trail is open and through-hikes are possible. Tbilisi and the coast are hot and crowded.
- Grape harvestSeptember to OctoberKakheti
The rtveli harvest brings village feasts. The best time to visit wineries.
- WinterDecember to MarchEverywhere
Ski resorts open but mountain villages become hard to reach. Tbilisi sees little snow.
- Pass closuresShut at short notice by avalanche riskNorthern mountain roads
The roads to Kazbegi and Svaneti close in winter. Check road conditions before setting out.
Before you go
Long stays are permitted and costs are low, so people linger.
- EntryLong visa-free staysEverywhere
Korean passports can stay a long time without a visa, which is why it is known as a long-stay base. Terms can change, so check before leaving.
- MoneyLari; cards work in citiesEverywhere
Villages and markets need cash. Exchange offices are common and rates are decent.
- Areas to stay out ofAbkhazia and South OssetiaNorthwest and north centre
Georgia treats these as occupied territories. Entering from the Russian side can get you refused entry to Georgia.
- Getting aroundMarshrutka shared vansEverywhere
Shared vans leave when full rather than on a timetable, and they are the backbone of transport. Mountain driving can be rough.
- Eating togetherThe supra and its toastsEverywhere
A tamada leads the toasts and a meal runs for hours. You are not obliged to drain every glass offered.
- LanguageGeorgian, in its own alphabetEverywhere
The script is entirely separate, so signs are hard to read. Younger people speak English; older people often Russian.
- Emergency number112Everywhere
One number reaches police, ambulance and fire, and English is available.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.