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Spain

A south where Islam and Christianity are layered together, Gaudí’s Barcelona, and the islands and beaches. The daily rhythm runs a couple of hours later than you are used to.

Icons

The regional histories differ so much that the landscape barely reads as one country.

  • A church over a century in the buildingSagrada FamíliaBarcelona

    Still under construction to Gaudí’s designs; inside, the columns branch like a forest and the stained glass shifts colour with the hour. Entry is by timed slot, so buying at the door is essentially impossible.

  • The high point of Islamic palace buildingThe AlhambraGranada

    The point of it is the geometric work covering every surface and the handling of water. The Nasrid Palaces admit you at a precise minute and sell out months ahead, so book this first.

  • A cathedral built inside a mosqueThe Mezquita of CórdobaCórdoba

    A forest of red-and-white double arches with a Renaissance cathedral inserted into the middle of it. Two religions under one roof is a rare thing to be able to stand inside.

  • The home of Spanish paintingMuseo del PradoMadrid

    Velázquez’s Las Meninas and Goya’s black paintings are here. There is a free entry window late in the afternoon, but the queue is long, so allow time.

  • A path walked for over a thousand yearsThe Camino de SantiagoNorth

    Eight hundred kilometres from the French border to Santiago de Compostela, though walking the last hundred is enough for the certificate. Beds are heavily contested in summer.

  • Eat standing, then move onTapas and bar cultureNationwide

    One or two plates per bar and then on to the next is how it is done. In some cities, Granada among them, a tapa arrives free with the drink.

World Heritage

Spain has one of the longest lists in the world — effectively one per city.

  • Palace and gardensAlhambra, Generalife and AlbayzínGranada

    The palace, the summer villa and the old Muslim quarter on the opposite hill, inscribed together. The Albayzín lanes are walked without a ticket.

  • One architect’s work as a siteWorks of Antoni GaudíBarcelona

    The Sagrada Família, Park Güell and Casa Milà among others, inscribed as a group. They are scattered, so splitting them over two days works better.

  • The whole cityHistoric Centre of CórdobaCórdoba

    The Jewish quarter and its narrow lanes radiate out from the Mezquita. In May there is a festival of flower-filled courtyards.

  • A city where three religions livedHistoric City of ToledoCastilla-La Mancha

    Cathedral, synagogues and traces of mosques together on a hill inside a river bend. Thirty minutes from Madrid by high-speed train.

Where to go

High-speed rail links the major cities, but buses are better for southern towns.

  • BarcelonaGaudí and the seaCatalonia

    Architecture, beach and food in one city, which is why it is the most common first stop. Pickpocketing is common, so wear your bag in front.

  • MadridGalleries and squaresCentre

    The Prado, Thyssen and Reina Sofía are within a walk of each other, and the nightlife is serious. High-speed lines fan out from here in every direction.

  • SevilleFlamenco and AndalusiaSouth

    Cathedral, Alcázar and Plaza de España all within walking distance. Summer afternoons pass forty degrees, so spring or autumn is better.

  • GranadaThe city beneath the AlhambraSouth

    The hill quarter of Albayzín and the cave district of Sacromonte adjoin it. In winter people ski in the Sierra Nevada nearby.

  • San SebastiánFood and a beachBasque Country

    Known for a beach inside a small bay and an old town packed with pintxo bars. Usually combined with the Guggenheim in Bilbao.

  • The islandsMallorca, Ibiza and the CanariesMediterranean and Atlantic

    The Mediterranean islands are summer resorts; the Canaries, off Africa, stay warm all winter and work year-round. All are reached by air from the mainland.

When to go

Summer heat in the south dictates the whole itinerary.

  • SpringApril–JuneNationwide

    The best time to move around. Seville’s Easter processions and fair fall here, which pushes accommodation prices up.

  • SummerJuly–AugustNationwide

    The southern interior passes forty degrees and cities stop at midday. Beaches and islands are at peak season and peak price.

  • AutumnSeptember–OctoberNationwide

    The heat breaks while the sea is still warm — the best balance of the year. Harvest festivals run in several regions.

  • WinterNovember–MarchNationwide

    The south and the Canaries stay mild enough to be winter destinations. The centre and north are cold and often wet.

Before you go

Meal times and shop hours are very different from what you are used to.

  • EntrySchengen short stayNationwide

    Up to ninety days in any one hundred and eighty across the Schengen area. The European travel authorisation scheme is being phased in, so check the official guidance before you leave.

  • The daily timetableLunch at two, dinner after nineNationwide

    You will struggle to find a restaurant open at seven; most start around nine. Some shops close in the middle of the day, so plan around it.

  • Getting aroundAVE high-speed rail; buses between townsNationwide

    High-speed lines radiate from Madrid, putting Barcelona and Seville two to three hours away. Booking early cuts the fare sharply.

  • LanguageSpanish, with co-official regional languagesNationwide

    Catalan, Basque and Galician are co-official in their regions, so signs appear in two languages. Outside tourist areas English does not go far.

  • PickpocketsTake care at sights and on the metroBarcelona and Madrid

    Violent crime is rare but pickpocketing is organised. Wear your bag in front and never hang it on the back of a restaurant chair.

  • Emergency number112Nationwide

    The pan-European number reaching police, ambulance and fire, with interpreters available. For insurance you need the police report, so file it at a station.

Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.