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Czechia

Largely spared by the wars, so medieval towns survive whole. It is also a country where beer costs less than water.

Icons

Prague is the face of it, but the smaller towns are better preserved.

  • A clock whose figures move on the hourThe Prague astronomical clockOld Town Square, Prague

    Built in the fifteenth century, it also shows the positions of the sun, moon and zodiac. Crowds gather for the brief procession of apostles on the hour, so take your spot a little early.

  • A bridge lined with saintsCharles BridgePrague

    A fourteenth-century stone bridge over the Vltava with thirty baroque saints along its parapets. It is shoulder to shoulder by day, so before sunrise is best for both photographs and walking.

  • The largest castle complex in the worldPrague Castle and St Vitus CathedralPrague

    Not one castle but a whole district of cathedral, palaces and lanes. It sits on the hill, so the walk down gives you the city laid out below.

  • A town inside a river bendČeský KrumlovSouth Bohemia

    A medieval town intact inside an S-bend of the Vltava, with a castle above holding an open-air theatre on a revolving auditorium. Three hours from Prague by bus.

  • A chapel decorated with bonesSedlec OssuaryKutná Hora

    A small chapel where the remains of tens of thousands, gathered after plague and war, are arranged as decoration. Photography inside is restricted, so follow the posted rules.

  • Where lager was inventedPilsner beer and Czech pubsPlzeň and nationwide

    The template for the world’s lagers came out of Plzeň in 1842. In a pub the next glass arrives without being asked, so mark your coaster when you want to stop.

World Heritage

Often it is an entire town that is inscribed, not a building.

  • The whole capitalHistoric Centre of PraguePrague

    Romanesque through Art Nouveau layered into a single district. Walking it takes you through architectural history.

  • A medieval small townHistoric Centre of Český KrumlovSouth Bohemia

    A street plan essentially unchanged for over five hundred years. Most people come for the day; staying overnight gets you a different town.

  • A town built on silverHistoric Centre of Kutná HoraCentral Bohemia

    Rich from medieval silver mining, with St Barbara’s Church as the proof. An hour from Prague by train.

  • A square that is the siteHistoric Centre of TelčSouth Moravia

    A small town whose square is ringed by pastel Renaissance houses. An easy stop from Brno if you have a car.

Where to go

Seeing only Prague leaves the best-value towns unvisited.

  • PragueThe capital and the start of nearly every itineraryCentre

    You can spend days simply walking between the old town and the castle. International flights and coaches all converge here.

  • BrnoThe second city, far less touristedSouth Moravia

    A university city with notable modern architecture and lower prices than Prague. It is the base for the Moravian wine country nearby.

  • Karlovy VaryA spa townWest Bohemia

    People walk the colonnades drinking the mineral water from spouted porcelain cups. During the film festival there are no rooms to be had.

  • OlomoucSomething like a miniature PragueCentral Moravia

    An astronomical clock and a baroque plague column on the square, with far fewer people. Being a student city, eating and drinking is cheap.

  • Bohemian SwitzerlandSandstone arches and gorgesNorth Bohemia

    A national park of enormous weathered sandstone gates and narrow ravines to walk. A day trip from Prague.

  • Moravian vineyardsWine villages in the southSouth Moravia

    A beer country whose south-east is wine country. Cycle paths run between the vineyards from village to village.

When to go

The gap between peak and off season is wide.

  • SpringApril–MayNationwide

    The weather turns and gardens open before the crowds arrive. The easiest time to travel.

  • SummerJune–AugustNationwide

    Prague and Český Krumlov are at their busiest. Plenty of outdoor performances and festivals.

  • AutumnSeptember–OctoberNationwide

    Fewer people, lower prices and good colour. Moravia is in harvest.

  • WinterDecember–FebruaryNationwide

    Christmas markets fill the squares and the old town is at its best under snow. It is genuinely cold and dark early.

Before you go

The thing that catches most people out is that it does not use the euro.

  • EntrySchengen short stayNationwide

    Up to ninety days in any one hundred and eighty across the Schengen area. The European travel authorisation scheme is being phased in, so check the official guidance before you leave.

  • MoneyCzech koruna, not the euroNationwide

    Some places take euros, but at a distinctly poor rate. Exchange booths near tourist sites charge heavily, so use a bank or pay by card.

  • Getting aroundIntercity buses and trains; a metro in PragueNationwide

    Private coaches are comfortable and seat-assigned, so book ahead. Prague transport runs on timed tickets validated once when you board.

  • RestaurantsFive to ten per cent; cover charges existNationwide

    You tip by rounding the total up when you pay. Bread or dips brought without being ordered are sometimes chargeable, so send them back if you do not want them.

  • Electricity230V, type C/E plugsNationwide

    Type E sockets with an earth pin are mixed in, and a Korean plug may not fit. Bring one adapter.

  • Emergency number112Nationwide

    The pan-European number reaching police, ambulance and fire, with English available. Prague has scams aimed at visitors, so take care with currency exchange and taxis.

Opening hours, fares and schedules change from year to year and by season. Check the official guidance for each site and operator before you travel.