Cuba
The largest island in the Caribbean. Fifty years of isolation left cities frozen in place and red valleys full of tobacco. It takes more preparation than most destinations.
Landmarks
Old cities, a tobacco valley, and beaches.
- An old city of four squaresHabana ViejaHavana
Colonial squares and churches, with restoration ongoing. A day on foot covers it.
- Eight kilometres of sea wallThe MalecónHavana
People come out and sit along it in the evening. On rough days the swell washes over the road.
- Tobacco fields among rock hillsViñales ValleyWest
Tobacco grows between rounded limestone hills called mogotes. People tour it on horseback or by bicycle.
- A colonial town of cobblesTrinidadSouth-central coast
Houses from the wealthy sugar years survive in strong colours. Almost no cars get in.
- Twenty kilometres of white sandVaraderoNorth coast
The largest resort area in Cuba, dense with large hotels. It feels nothing like the cities.
- American cars from the fiftiesClassic cars on the streetEverywhere
With imports cut off, old cars have been repaired indefinitely. Cars used as taxis and tourist cars charge differently.
World Heritage
Colonial towns, fortifications, and a valley.
- Old Havana and its fortificationsThe largest colonial city in the CaribbeanHavana
The urban fabric built up from the sixteenth century and the harbour forts are inscribed together.
- Trinidad and the Valley of the Sugar MillsWhat the sugar industry leftCentral Cuba
The town is inscribed together with the Los Ingenios valley of plantations. It is a history of slave labour.
- Viñales ValleyA landscape that includes how it is farmedWest
Inscribed as a cultural landscape because the traditional hand methods of tobacco growing continue.
- Historic centre of CienfuegosA nineteenth-century neoclassical citySouth-central coast
Planned and built by French settlers, keeping its grid and neoclassical architecture.
Where to go
From Havana, west to the valley or east to the central towns.
- HavanaThe capitalNorthwest
The international gateway. Three days is what it takes before the city comes into focus.
- ViñalesThe tobacco valley townWest
Three or four hours by bus from Havana. Mostly homestays, so costs are low.
- TrinidadThe best-preserved colonial townCentral Cuba
Beaches and mountains are both close. The second-busiest place for visitors after Havana.
- Santiago de CubaThe second citySoutheast
Different in character from Havana and more Caribbean. The centre of revolutionary history.
- CienfuegosA city on a baySouth-central coast
A wide bay and neoclassical buildings. An easy stop on the way to Trinidad.
- The cayosOffshore coral islandsOff the north coast
Resorts on small islands reached by causeway. A separate world from the mainland.
When to go
A dry and a wet season, plus hurricane season.
- Dry seasonNovember to AprilEverywhere
Cooler and less humid, the best travelling weather. Also the peak season.
- Wet seasonMay to OctoberEverywhere
Hot and humid with afternoon showers. Prices fall.
- HurricanesJune to November, peaking in SeptemberEverywhere
A direct track means cancelled flights and power cuts. Carry insurance and leave slack in the itinerary.
- CarnivalJulySantiago de Cuba
The largest festival, with street processions. Rooms fill early.
- Tobacco harvestJanuary to MarchViñales
You can watch the leaves picked and hung to dry. The best window for farm visits.
Before you go
Money, connectivity and supply all work differently here.
- EntryTourist card required; medical insurance mandatoryEverywhere
Korean passports need a tourist card, and travel medical insurance is compulsory. Transiting the US complicates matters, so check your route.
- Effect on US entryESTA use may be restricted afterwardsIf you plan to visit the US
Having visited Cuba can restrict visa-free entry to the United States. Check in advance if the US is in your plans.
- MoneyForeign cards mostly do not workEverywhere
US-issued cards cannot be used and others are unreliable. Assume you must bring the entire trip budget in cash.
- InternetSlow and limitedEverywhere
Connections drop frequently. Download maps and booking details before you arrive.
- HomestaysCasas particularesEverywhere
Licensed rooms in private homes, cheaper than hotels and a better window on daily life. Almost always cash.
- SuppliesBasics can be unavailableEverywhere
Medicines, sanitary products and sunscreen are hard to find locally. Bring what you need.
- Emergency numbersPolice 106, ambulance 104, fire 105Everywhere
Medical skill is decent but medicines are short. Carry the insurance certificate you were required to buy.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.