Costa Rica
A small Central American country holding an outsized share of the planet’s species. It abolished its army and set aside a generous portion of its land as protected area.
Landmarks
Volcanoes, cloud forest, and two ocean coasts.
- A cone-shaped volcanoArenal, 1,670mNorth
Almost perfectly conical. Hot springs sit at its base, and cloud hides the summit on many days.
- Forest inside cloudMonteverde Cloud ForestNorth-central highlands
Suspension bridges and ziplines run through the canopy. One of the places to see a quetzal.
- Rainforest against a beachManuel AntonioCentral Pacific coast
You walk out of the forest onto the sand. Monkeys and sloths are seen close up.
- A canal village for turtlesTortugueroNorthern Caribbean coast
No roads reach it; you arrive by boat or light aircraft. Green turtles nest from July to October.
- The wildest place in the countryCorcovado National ParkOsa Peninsula, southwest
National Geographic once called it the most biologically intense place on earth. A guide is required.
- A sky-blue riverRío CelesteNorth
Volcanic minerals react where two rivers meet and turn the water pale blue. Rain clouds it.
World Heritage
Mostly natural sites.
- Cocos Island National ParkA remote volcanic island and its sharks550km out in the Pacific
A diving pilgrimage famous for schooling hammerheads. More than thirty hours by boat.
- La AmistadA reserve shared with PanamaSoutheastern mountains
Where North and South American species mixed during the ice ages. Hard to reach.
- Área de Conservación GuanacasteDry forest and volcanoesNorthwest
Holds some of the little tropical dry forest left in Central America. The corridor runs to the sea.
- Stone spheres of the DiquísPrecisely spherical stonesSouth
Some are more than two metres across and finely made. What they were for remains unresolved.
Where to go
San José as the hub, joining volcano, cloud forest and both coasts.
- San JoséThe capitalCentral valley
The international gateway, and more a starting point than a destination.
- La FortunaThe town below ArenalNorth
Hot springs, waterfalls and ziplines together. Three or four hours from San José.
- Santa ElenaThe cloud forest baseNorth centre
The road is unpaved, so it takes far longer than the distance suggests. Cool enough to need a layer.
- Guanacaste beachesPacific resortsNorthwest
Surf towns like Tamarindo and Nosara. The dry season here is pronounced.
- Puerto ViejoThe Caribbean sideSoutheast
Strong Afro-Caribbean culture gives it different music and food. Slower than the Pacific coast.
- Osa PeninsulaThe remote southwestSouthwest
The way into Corcovado. Few facilities, and expensive.
When to go
A dry and a wet season, except the Caribbean side runs on its own.
- Dry seasonDecember to AprilPacific side and centre
Best for beaches and volcanoes. Peak season, so prices rise.
- Green seasonMay to NovemberPacific side and centre
Clear mornings and afternoon rain. Deep green and cheaper, and many people prefer it.
- The Caribbean sideClearest September to OctoberSoutheast coast
It is driest here when the rest of the country is wettest. The seasons run inverted.
- Turtle nestingJuly to OctoberTortuguero
Viewing is at night and with a guide only. Lights and photography are prohibited.
- Humpback whalesJuly to October and December to MarchSouthern Pacific coast
Southern and northern populations arrive in turn. Few places have two whale seasons a year.
Before you go
Expensive by Central American standards, and travel is slow.
- EntryVisa-free for short tourist staysEverywhere
Korean passports need no visa for short tourist stays. A return ticket may be checked.
- DrivingFour-wheel-drive is needed in many placesEverywhere
There are unpaved roads and river crossings. Journeys take far longer than map estimates.
- MoneyColón, with dollars widely acceptedEverywhere
Tourism is large enough that many places take dollars directly, but change comes back in colones.
- GuidesYou see far more with oneNational parks
A guide with a spotting scope is how sloths and birds get found. Walking alone, you see almost nothing.
- Wildlife rulesDo not feed the animalsEverywhere
Feeding monkeys is prohibited and fined. Keep your distance from wildlife.
- WaterGenerally drinkableCities and tourist areas
Unusually for the region, tap water is largely safe. Use bottled water in remote areas.
- Emergency number911Everywhere
Reaches police, ambulance and fire, with English available. Medical standards are good.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.