Chile
A country 4,300km long and about 180km wide. The driest desert on earth and its glaciers belong to the same territory.
Landmarks
Desert in the north, glaciers in the south, and an island far out in the Pacific.
- Three granite towersTorres del PainePatagonia, south
Walkers choose between the multi-day W and the full circuit. The wind is severe and the weather turns several times a day.
- The driest desertAtacamaNorth
Some measuring stations have gone decades without rain. The clear air is why major observatories cluster here.
- An island of giant statuesRapa Nui, Easter Island3,500km out in the Pacific
Some nine hundred moai remain. It is more than five hours by air from Santiago.
- A port of hills and muralsValparaísoCentral coast
Old funiculars still climb the steep hills. Murals cover the lanes.
- Marble cut by waterThe Marble CavesAysén, south
Waves on Lake General Carrera carved these caverns out of marble. Reached only by boat.
- An island of wooden churchesChiloéSouth
Wooden churches built without nails, and houses raised on stilts. Foggy, and thick with folklore.
World Heritage
Statues, mines, a port, and wooden churches.
- Rapa Nui National ParkMoai and the quarryEaster Island
Unfinished moai still lie in the Rano Raraku quarry where they were being cut.
- Historic quarter of ValparaísoA nineteenth-century portCentral coast
It was the hub of the Pacific route before the Panama Canal opened. The hill lifts are part of the inscription.
- Humberstone saltpeter worksAn abandoned desert company townNorthern desert
The nitrate works and workers’ housing survive whole. The desert kept them from decaying.
- Churches of ChiloéSixteen wooden churchesSouth
A distinctive architecture where missionary design met indigenous boatbuilding. They are scattered across the islands.
Where to go
The country is long enough that domestic flights are close to essential.
- SantiagoThe capitalCentre
The Andes rise behind the city. International and domestic routes both branch from here.
- San Pedro de AtacamaThe desert baseNorth
Geysers, salt flats and stargazing all leave from here. At 2,400m it needs a little acclimatising.
- Puerto NatalesGateway to PatagoniaFar south
The town you enter Torres del Paine from. Gear rental and resupply happen here.
- PucónVolcanoes and lakesSouth centre
You can walk up the smoking Villarrica volcano. Hot springs are plentiful.
- Andean ski fieldsNear SantiagoCentral mountains
Two hours from the capital. The season runs while the northern hemisphere is in summer.
- Wine valleysCasablanca and ColchaguaCentre
Day trips from Santiago. Each valley grows different varieties.
When to go
Southern hemisphere seasons, and north and south peak at different times.
- PatagoniaNovember to MarchSouth
Refuges and trails really only work in summer. Even then, expect wind and rain.
- AtacamaAny time of yearNorth
Dry throughout, but nights go below freezing. January and February bring the rare altiplano rains.
- The centreSeptember to November, March to MaySantiago and Valparaíso
Spring and autumn are most comfortable. Summer is hot and the winter air is poor in the basin.
- SkiingJune to SeptemberThe Andes
The season opens while the northern hemisphere is in summer. Patagonia is largely shut then.
- The flowering desertOnce every few yearsSouthern Atacama
Only in years with enough rain does the desert cover in flowers. It is hard to predict.
Before you go
Distance and domestic airfares make up most of the budget.
- EntryVisa-free for short tourist staysEverywhere
Korean passports need no visa for short tourist stays. Keep your entry paperwork safe.
- Agricultural importsStrictly enforcedAirports and borders
Fruit, meat and seeds are heavily prohibited and fines are large. Declare everything on the form.
- DistanceHard without domestic flightsEverywhere
Santiago to Patagonia is three days by bus. Booking domestic flights early is far cheaper.
- MoneyPeso; cards widely acceptedEverywhere
Expensive by South American standards. Foreigners are sometimes exempt from VAT on hotels, so show your passport.
- AltitudeThe north sits highAtacama and the altiplano
The geyser field is at 4,300m. Do not go up the day after you arrive.
- EarthquakesThey happen oftenEverywhere
Construction is well engineered, but read the evacuation notices. On the coast, note the tsunami routes.
- Emergency numbersPolice 133, ambulance 131, fire 132Everywhere
Spanish is the default. In tourist areas, going through your accommodation is faster.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.