Cebu
An island in the central Visayas. Spain settled here first, so the oldest churches are here, and the south of the island has whale sharks and waterfalls.
Landmarks
What the colonial period left, and the water in the south.
- A cross five hundred years oldMagellan's CrossCebu City
The cross Magellan raised is housed inside a wooden pavilion to protect it. The Santo Niño basilica is next door.
- Terraced turquoise fallsKawasan FallsBadian, southwest
Known for canyoneering, jumping down the gorge stage by stage. It is cancelled in rain, which makes it dangerous.
- Whale sharksOslobSoutheast
The animals are drawn in by feeding, which is contested on welfare grounds. There are non-feeding sites elsewhere.
- The sardine runMoalboalSouthwest
Swim out from the beach and you meet an enormous school of sardines. Rare in being present year-round.
- More than a thousand hillsChocolate HillsBohol
The grass browns in the dry season, which gave them the name. Two hours from Cebu by boat.
- An island with a moving sandbarSumilon IslandOffshore to the southeast
The sandbar shifts position with the season. It was the first marine protected area in the Philippines.
Where to go
The city in the north, nature in the south, and islands by boat.
- Cebu CityThe main cityEast
The international gateway. Historic sites and markets, but heavy traffic.
- Mactan IslandWhere the resorts areBeside Cebu City
The airport is on this island. More about resort facilities than beaches.
- MoalboalA diving townSouthwest
Three or four hours by road from Cebu City. Cheap rooms and plenty of dive operators.
- Oslob and SumilonThe southeast coastSoutheast
Whale shark trips start at dawn. Better to stay nearby the night before.
- Bantayan IslandWhite sand beachesOffshore to the northwest
Quiet and inexpensive. Reached by ferry.
- Malapascua IslandThresher sharksOff the northern tip
One of the few places to see thresher sharks on a dawn dive. Half a day from Cebu City.
When to go
Hot all year, and relatively off the main typhoon track.
- Dry seasonDecember to MayEverywhere
Little rain and calm seas. January to April is the best window.
- Wet seasonJune to NovemberEverywhere
Squalls pass through, but all-day rain is rare. Prices fall.
- TyphoonsJuly to NovemberEverywhere
The Visayas have taken major typhoons before. Watch the track forecast.
- Sinulog festivalThird week of JanuaryCebu City
One of the largest festivals in the Philippines, and the city stops. Rooms fill months ahead.
- Thresher sharksYear-round, at dawnMalapascua
They visit the cleaning station only in the early morning. The depth means certification is required.
Before you go
Getting around the island takes time, and wildlife tourism needs a choice made.
- EntryVisa-free for short tourist staysMactan-Cebu Airport
Korean passports need no visa for short tourist stays. Direct flights run from Incheon.
- Getting aroundTime matters far more than distanceEverywhere
Three or four hours to the southern tip on a single road. Do not combine north and south in one day.
- Choosing a whale shark tripFeeding sites and non-feeding sitesOslob and elsewhere
Feeding to attract the animals is criticised for changing their behaviour. Know which kind you are booking.
- MoneyPeso; largely cashEverywhere
Cards work in the city, but the south and the islands are cash. Withdraw before you leave town.
- SafetyRegional variation and night travelEverywhere
Cebu is generally fine, but parts of the southern Philippines carry travel advisories. Avoid empty streets after dark.
- WaterDo not drink the tap waterEverywhere
Use bottled water and be careful with ice from street stalls. Filtered water at resorts is generally fine.
- Emergency number911Everywhere
Reaches police, ambulance and fire. Recompression facilities are limited, so check your dive insurance.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.