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Canada

East and west are five flying hours apart. Decide first whether this is a Rockies trip or an eastern cities trip.

Icons

The west means mountains and lakes; the east means waterfalls and cities.

  • Niagara FallsAn enormous horseshoe of waterOntario

    It straddles the border with the United States, but the side that sees the whole falls is the Canadian one. The boat that takes you into the spray is the signature experience and they hand out ponchos. Boats pause in winter, when the edges freeze into something else worth seeing.

  • Turquoise lakesLake Louise and Moraine LakeBanff, Alberta

    Rock flour ground by glaciers suspends in the water and turns it blue-green. The colour needs the ice gone, so June onward, and private vehicles are barred from Moraine Lake in season — take the shuttle. Early morning is calm enough for reflections.

  • A road along the glaciersThe Icefields ParkwayAlberta

    Around 230 km of mountain road from Banff to Jasper, with glaciers and lakes appearing continuously. Midway, the Columbia Icefield runs vehicle tours out onto the ice. Winter conditions restrict the drive.

  • Europe in North AmericaOld QuébecQuebec

    The only walled city in North America, French-speaking and European in its buildings. The castle-shaped hotel on the hill is its emblem, and snow suits it. Three hours from Montreal by train.

  • The northern lightsYellowknife and WhitehorseNorthwest Territories and Yukon

    Sitting under the auroral oval gives good winter odds. One night is a gamble on the weather, so three or more is normal. It drops below minus thirty, and most tours include cold-weather gear.

  • Whale watchingThe St Lawrence and Vancouver IslandQuebec and British Columbia

    Belugas and large whales in the east, orcas in the west. Which species appear depends on the month, but summer is good on both coasts. The boats move — bring something for seasickness.

World Heritage

Mountain ranges, fossil beds and Indigenous sites.

  • The Canadian RockiesBanff, Jasper, Yoho and KootenayAlberta and British Columbia

    Four adjoining national parks listed as one property. This is bear country, so carry spray and follow the food storage rules. Summer accommodation fills early — book ahead.

  • Dinosaur fossil bedsDinosaur Provincial ParkAlberta

    One of the richest dinosaur fossil sites in the world, with excavation visible in place. It pairs with the Royal Tyrrell Museum nearby. About two hours by road from Calgary.

  • Where the Norse landedL’Anse aux MeadowsNewfoundland

    A Norse settlement in the Americas five centuries before Columbus. Reconstructed turf houses stand beside the excavated remains. It is remote enough to need its own leg of a trip.

  • Where the mantle reaches the surfaceGros Morne National ParkNewfoundland

    Rock from beneath the crust is exposed here, which made it evidence for plate tectonics. There are fjord-like inlets and walking routes. Summer is effectively the only season.

  • A buffalo jumpHead-Smashed-In Buffalo JumpAlberta

    Where Indigenous peoples drove bison over a cliff for thousands of years, with an excellent interpretive centre. The site itself is a cliff and grassland, so the interpretation is the visit. A day trip from Calgary.

  • A timber port townOld Town LunenburgNova Scotia

    An eighteenth-century British colonial town plan preserved along with its wooden buildings. Painted houses line the harbour. Around an hour by road from Halifax.

Where to go

The cities are far enough apart that planning around domestic flights makes sense.

  • VancouverMountains and sea against a cityBritish Columbia

    Ski slopes and beaches are both close to downtown, and there is a very large city park. It has Canada’s mildest winter and its wettest. Vancouver Island and Whistler are day or overnight trips.

  • Calgary and BanffThe gateway to the RockiesAlberta

    Ninety minutes by road from Calgary airport to Banff. Inside the parks, vehicle access and parking are restricted in places and you use shuttles. Both summer and winter are peak.

  • TorontoThe largest cityOntario

    A high immigrant share gives it unusually varied food and neighbourhoods. Niagara Falls is ninety minutes away by road. Winter is long and cold, but an extensive underground walkway network helps.

  • MontrealA French-speaking cityQuebec

    Often called the most European city in North America, and full of festivals. The cobbled old town sits against a modern downtown. Winters are severe, but the underground city is extensive.

  • Québec CityA small city inside its wallsQuebec

    Small enough to see on foot, so a night is enough. The winter carnival and ice sculpture are famous, and the snow is deep. Usually paired with Montreal.

  • The Atlantic coastHalifax and Prince Edward IslandEast coast

    Fishing villages, lighthouses and seafood, with the island known as the setting of Anne of Green Gables. The season is short, so visitors concentrate in June to September. Travel between towns is by road.

When to go

Winter is long and hard, which splits the year cleanly.

  • SummerJune–August, peak seasonNationwide

    The Rockies lakes have thawed to their proper colour and all the roads and trails are open. Rooms and rental cars are at their most expensive and sell out — book months ahead. Long days let you cover more.

  • AutumnSeptember–OctoberMainly the east

    Quebec and Ontario peak for autumn colour now. Fewer people, lower prices and pleasant weather. The mountains can see snow from September.

  • WinterNovember–MarchNationwide

    Below minus twenty is routine in the east, and the western mountains are in ski season. The northern lights require this season, and some park roads close. Bring proper cold-weather clothing.

  • SpringApril–MayNationwide

    The thaw leaves many mountain areas still closed and the lakes possibly still frozen. The cities are quiet and cheap. Vancouver gets cherry blossom.

Before you go

Entry authorisation, wildlife and scale are the things to get right.

  • Entry authorisationElectronic Travel Authorization (eTA) or a visaNationwide

    Visa-exempt travellers arriving by air need an eTA in advance. Arriving by land can have different requirements, so check. It is applied for online and usually issued quickly, but leave margin.

  • Tipping and taxTipping is expected and tax is added separatelyNationwide

    Fifteen to twenty per cent on a restaurant bill is standard. Displayed prices exclude tax, so totals rise at the till, and rates differ by province. Budget for both.

  • WildlifeBear country covers a lot of groundMountains and national parks

    Most national parks are bear habitat: use the food lockers and leave nothing in the car. Make noise on the trail and carry bear spray. If you see an animal from the road, stay in the vehicle.

  • DistanceThe second-largest country in the worldNationwide

    Vancouver to Toronto is close to five hours by air. Rather than attempting both coasts, pick one. A transcontinental train exists but takes days.

  • Emergency number911Nationwide

    Police, fire and ambulance all answer on 911. Medical care is very expensive for visitors, so travel insurance is effectively mandatory. Remote areas have no mobile coverage — download maps in advance.

  • LanguageFrench is the official language in QuebecQuebec

    Signs and menus may be in French only. English works in tourist settings, but opening with a French greeting changes the reception. The rest of the country runs in English.

Entry authorisation, park shuttle and reservation systems and road openings change year to year. Check official information before you travel.