Bali
The one island in Indonesia where Hinduism predominates. Terraced rice fields, volcanoes, and the daily offerings set outside every house are the ordinary scenery.
Landmarks
Temples, rice terraces, and a volcano.
- A temple on a sea rockTanah LotSouthwest coast
An island at high tide, walkable at low. Sunset draws the biggest crowd.
- A temple on a cliff edgeUluwatuSouthern peninsula
Seventy metres above the sea, with kecak dance performances in the evening. Monkeys snatch glasses and hats.
- Rice terracesTegalalangNorth of Ubud
Fields shaped by the traditional subak irrigation. Some sections charge a fee paid to the field owner.
- A volcano climbed for sunriseMount Batur, 1,717mNorth centre
You set off around two in the morning to reach the top at dawn. A guide is effectively required.
- World HeritageThe subak irrigation systemCentral Bali
A thousand-year-old system of shared water, inscribed together with its temples, fields and channels. Religion and farming are one institution here.
- Cliffs and manta raysNusa PenidaOffshore to the southeast
Known from photographs of the Kelingking cliff. Forty minutes by boat, and rough island roads make journeys long.
Where to go
The southern beaches, the central hills and the two coasts all differ.
- UbudThe centre for fields and craftCentral interior
Yoga, crafts and dance performances. No coast, and cooler than the beaches.
- Seminyak and CangguBeach restaurants and cafesSouthwest coast
Surf, sunsets and a restaurant strip. Long-stay visitors have pushed prices up.
- KutaThe busiest beachSouth
Close to the airport and cheap. Noisy, and people either like it or avoid it.
- The Uluwatu areaBeaches below cliffsSouthern peninsula
Heavy surf draws surfers. Each beach involves a long flight of steps.
- Amed and TulambenThe diving coastEast
A wreck you can reach by walking in from the beach. Few tourists, and quiet.
- Munduk and the northern lakesWaterfalls and coffee farmsNorthern hills
High enough to be cool, and often misty. The Bratan lake temple is close.
When to go
Near the equator, rain rather than temperature marks the seasons.
- Dry seasonApril to OctoberEverywhere
Less rain and lower humidity, the best time to travel. July and August are peak.
- Wet seasonNovember to MarchEverywhere
It pours in the afternoon and stops. Prices fall and the fields are at their greenest.
- Nyepi, the day of silenceOne day around MarchEverywhere
Even the airport closes and the whole island stops for twenty-four hours. You cannot leave your accommodation, so plan around it.
- SurfingWest coast April to October, east coast November to MarchThe coast
Wind direction flips which beaches work. Go to the side that matches the season.
- Manta seasonMore frequent April to OctoberNusa Penida
Boats need clear water and low swell. Cancellations are common in the wet season.
Before you go
Temple etiquette and traffic make up most of the preparation.
- EntryVisa on arrival and a tourist levyNgurah Rai Airport
Korean passports get a visa on arrival. Bali also charges its own tourist levy; paying online first shortens the queue.
- Temple etiquetteWear a sarong; some entry restrictionsTemples
A sarong is tied at the waist to enter. Signs state the custom of not entering while menstruating.
- ScootersRiding without a licence is dangerousEverywhere
Enforcement has tightened, and insurance does not pay out on unlicensed accidents. Ride-hailing is safer.
- TrafficTime matters far more than distanceSouth
Thirty kilometres can take two hours. Do not stack several areas into one day.
- MoneyRupiah; use authorised exchanges onlyEverywhere
Street exchange counters have short-changed people. Use a bank or licensed operator.
- Water and foodBe careful with tap water and iceEverywhere
Do not drink the tap water, and be cautious with ice at small stalls. Use bottled water.
- Emergency number112Everywhere
Reaches police and ambulance. Recompression facilities for diving accidents are limited, so check your insurance.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.