Albania
A coastal country in the southwest Balkans. Closed off for a long time, its Ionian coast is still underbuilt, and prices are among the lowest in Europe.
Landmarks
Stone-built hill towns and a coast still relatively quiet.
- The city of a thousand windowsBeratCentral Albania
White houses stack up the hillside so the windows seem to layer. People still live inside the castle.
- The city of stone roofsGjirokastërSouth
Ottoman-era houses roofed in stone slabs survive here. The castle above looks down the valley.
- A coast not yet famousThe Albanian RivieraSouthwest coast
Clear Ionian water runs from Himarë down to Ksamil. It is filling up fast in summer.
- A spring of unknown depthThe Blue EyeNear Sarandë, south
Water wells up from underground as a deep blue pupil. Nobody has dived to the bottom.
- The Accursed MountainsTheth and the Valbona passNorthern Alps
The pass walk between the two villages is well known. Getting there includes the Komani Lake ferry.
- Bunkers across the countryCold War concrete bunkersNationwide
Hundreds of thousands were built during the isolation years and still sit in fields and on beaches. Some are now museums.
World Heritage
An ancient city, two Ottoman towns, and a lake and forests.
- ButrintAn ancient city in layersSouth
Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian occupations left in sequence beside a lagoon.
- Berat and GjirokastërTwo Ottoman-era townsCentre and south
Inscribed together as rare intact examples of Ottoman urban architecture.
- Lake Ohrid regionShared with North MacedoniaEastern border
One of the oldest lakes in Europe, with many endemic species. The Albanian portion was added later.
- Primeval beech forestsShared across many European countriesNorth and east
Remnants of the beech forest that spread across Europe after the last ice age.
Where to go
The standard route runs south from Tirana to the coast.
- TiranaThe capitalCentre
Known for its brightly painted buildings. Museums address the communist period directly.
- SarandëThe southern coastal townSouthwest
Corfu is thirty minutes away by ferry. The base for Butrint and the Blue Eye.
- KsamilSmall islands and clear waterFar south
Islets sit close enough offshore to swim to. Finding space is hard in summer.
- ShkodërGateway to the northNorth
A flat town that suits cycling. The northern Alps and Komani Lake are reached from here.
- DurrësA Roman amphitheatre and a beachCentral coast
One of the largest Roman amphitheatres in the Balkans sits in the town. The sand beach runs a long way.
- KorçëAn eastern highland townEast
Known for beer and for serenade singing. High enough that it snows in winter.
When to go
Mediterranean on the coast; the northern mountains are hard to reach in winter.
- SummerJune to AugustThe coast
Warm water and everything open. August draws visitors from across the Balkans.
- Shoulder seasonMay, September to OctoberEverywhere
Quieter and cheaper. A good time to combine mountains and coast.
- WinterNovember to MarchThe coast
Wet, and much coastal accommodation closes. The cities carry on as normal.
- The northern AlpsOpen only June to SeptemberTheth and Valbona
Snow makes the villages and the pass walk impractical the rest of the year, and ferry services thin out.
- Road conditionsMountain roads are narrow and roughSouth and north
Short distances take a long time. Budget generously against map estimates.
Before you go
Close to a cash society, and travel eats time.
- EntryVisa-free short stays; not SchengenEverywhere
Korean passports may stay visa-free up to a set period, counted separately from Schengen.
- MoneyLek, and mostly cashEverywhere
Many places still do not take cards. Tourist spots may take euros, but at poor rates.
- Getting aroundThere is effectively no railEverywhere
Intercity coaches and shared vans are the backbone, on loose timetables. A rental car is far easier.
- WaterDo not drink the tap waterEverywhere
Quality is uneven by region. Use bottled water.
- Head gesturesThe nod may be reversedEverywhere
In some areas a shake means yes and a nod means no. Safer to confirm in words.
- LanguageAlbanian, with Italian and EnglishEverywhere
Italian is widely understood thanks to decades of Italian television. Younger people speak good English.
- Emergency numbers112Everywhere
Police 129 and ambulance 127 also work. In the mountains both contact and rescue take time.
Opening hours, fares and schedules change year to year and by season. Check each operator or venue before you travel.